Creador: Claudia lamascolo
Lets Talk Salt
Salt is not simply salt. There are sublime differences among salts. For the sake of this discussion, we'll set aside all herbed, smoked and flavored salts and simply deal with the distinct differences among what we'll call 'straight ' or unadulterated salts. Experience is said to be the best teacher, so, feel free to add to this commentary. Salt is a necessary flavor enhancer in almost everything we do in the kitchen, on the grill or over a fire. All I ask you to do is to take every opportunity to put a pinch of every straight salt you come across on your tongue and savor the flavor. For example, a pinch of Morton salt out of the cardboard canister will be a 'hot' salt, with a hot, or burning flavor. A Fleur de Mer is the spray residue from Atlantic waves, and is very sweet and delicate. Where there is salt water, salt is gathered. Salt is also mined, particularly in Eastern Europe, where, since Roman times, salt was mined from deep within the earth. You will find pink salt from the Himalayas, sea salt from the North Sea, from France, from Sicily, the Mediterranean, from the Adriatic. I would urge you to stop using the 'hot' salt most of us in the USA grew up with, and make every effort to use a packaged sea salt (like Hain) for soaking your fowl before prepping, and the finer, more subtle and sweeter (and more expensive) sea salts for flavoring and finishing your dishes. I will guarantee that you will be healthier for it and your dishes will be somewhat more complex as a reSALT! Sorry, couldn't resist: I meant as a result...
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Thanks for this, Amos! Learned a lot from this post. Never knew that salt could be mined from the earth--but I guess it makes sense, seas dry up over the millennia, after all. And the distinction between hot and other salt is new to me--I will definitely put that to the test!
Hi, Frank - The simplest test I can suggest is to try a pinch of Morton salt on your tongue. Let it melt and 'taste' it. Then, some time later, after your mouth has recovered and is fresh, take a pinch of Fleur de Mer or Fleur de Sel and repeat the exercise. Let me know what you think. I believe that in the Czech Republic there are underground salt mines that were used so long and the salt vein is so extensive that there is actually a museum within the mine with huge sculptures from salt that were made over many generations.
Just as with olive oils, with cooking salts you have an incedible taste - and use - range and profile. There are finishing salts and finishing oils. Its not just a marketing ploy. One's cooking improves when one uses the right tools for the job.
Seasoning peppers, (as opposed to chilis and sweetpeppers), also give us huge profiles and can change the personality and temper of a dish. I would not substitute white pepper for black, and prefer Tellicherry to any other black peppercorn. Thought to be the finest black pepper in the world, the Tellicherry berries are left on the bush longer enabling them to really develop deep, rich pepper flavor, what I would call a true bass note. Maybe that's a topic for another day...
Amazing information I was unaware of. I love the information given here, so true about peppers and the changes you refer too. I love pepper and need to check our the Tellicherry. I buy all kinds of salts, this is the most intriguing information I am so truly grateful of your knowledge thanks so much and keep it coming...you are a most welcome wealth of information!
Dear Claudia - My pleasure! If you've read any of the copy on my C-E-S page, you know that I believe that making a dish, eating a dish, even sharing a dish is really only part of the picture.
There are really only a couple of chefs I've come across who dig deeply into the history, the cultural context, the romance of a cuisine. The truest pleasure of cooking is placing everything into it's proper cultural and historic context. Rick Bayless is probably the best. His knowledge of the ingredients, the history of their use, the romance associated with the preparations that go into every element of Mexican cuisine set every dish he makes into a total experience, not simply a gastronomic moment. Besides, the more we know about what is really avaialable to we who love cooking, the more innovative and imaginative we will be. And, even if each of us is the only one who eats the dish we prepare, our pleasure in what we have created will consume us, as we consume the dish - a total experience. Cooking well is its own reward!
Amen very well said thank you Chef Amos! Truer words never spoken!
Let's wrap up my end of this topic and put salt in perspective. Different salts are best used in different dishes or preparations.
If you are flavoring a stew or a soup, for example, measure the Morton or Hain with a spoon and you'll be fine because "table"salt will dissolve quickly precisely because it is 'fine'. Same for baking. The smaller, evenly-sized crystals will be distribute the best in the dough and will dissolve quickly and you will have awesome biscuits. Personally, I like a fine grey French sea salt in my cornbread, that's just my personal preference in that bread.
If you are grilling or roasting or barbequeing meat, , you may find, as I do, that Maldon Sea Salt is perfect: its larger crystals bring out the very best in meats, almost sweetening them.
If you want to invest in just one salt for meat & biscuits, then you may prefer Morton Coarse Kosher Salt. Its in the flavor. Keep some ready near the stove all the time.
Save those special sea salts for the dining room table, served in a little glass bowl with a little silver spoon. Think in pinches and finishing a dish - just a pinch on the top of the dish for that sweetness that sublime sea salts bring to the table.
And don't waste your more expensive finishing salts on the presoak of poultry. Plop that chicken or duck in a pot of cold water with a handful of 'table' salt for 10 minutes, or in the turkey brining solution, then rinse, rinse rinse the salt (and any nasty bacteria) down the drain.
Bookmarking this! Thanks for all the info, and the great read, Amos!
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