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04.26.14: dessert (yogurt foam with blackberries)
by
Elizabeth Schreiter
Calificación: 4.0
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%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EA%20few%20weeks%20ago%20after%20seeing%20the%20Spain%20episode%20of%20Mind%20of%20a%20Chef%20one%20too%20many%20times,%20I%20finally%20broke%20down%20and%20bought%20myself%20a%20whipped%20cream%20siphon%20(specifically,%20this%20one).%20You%20may%20be%20wondering%20why%20I%20wanted%20to%20do%20this,%20given%20the%20fact%20that:%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EMy%20husband%20is%20lactose-intolerant%20and%20therefore%20we%20usually%20have%20little%20need%20for%20whipped%20cream%20in%20the%20house,%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EI%20am%20not%20much%20of%20a%20baker%20and%20therefore%20do%20not%20whip%20up%20desserts%20on%20the%20regular%20that%20would%20call%20for%20whipped%20cream,%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EIt%E2%80%99s%20not%20a%20small%20amount%20of%20money%20to%20pay%20for%20what%20on%20the%20surface%20feels%20like%20it%20could%20very%20much%20just%20be%20a%20fun%20toy.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EAll%20valid%20points,%20I%20grant%20you.%20But%20if%20you%20watch%20%E2%80%9CSpain%E2%80%9D%20and%20specifically%20watch%20the%20segment%20in%20which%20David%20Chang%20and%20one%20of%20his%20pastry%20chefs%20make%20Albert%20Adri%C3%A0%E2%80%99s%20microwave%20sponge%20cake%20too%20many%20times,%20a%20yearning%20to%20recreate%20this%20for%20yourself%20becomes%20far%20too%20persistent%20and%20annoying%20to%20ignore.%20Moreover,%20I%20actually%20had%20the%20recipe%20to%20make%20the%20cake%20because%20it%E2%80%99s%20included%20in%20the%20second%20issue%20of%20Lucky%20Peach,%20so%20it%20wasn%E2%80%99t%20as%20if%20I%E2%80%99d%20have%20to%20scour%20the%20internet%20in%20order%20to%20cobble%20together%20some%20incomplete%20facsimile.%20A%20quick%20search%20on%20Food%20and%20Wine%E2%80%99s%20website%20yielded%20a%20few%20more%20recipes%20that%20could%20be%20made%20with%20the%20siphon,%20so%20I%20felt%20like%20I%20had%20created%20a%20sizable%20argument%20in%20favor%20of%20getting%20one.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EYogurt%20Foam%20with%20Blackberries%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EThe%20only%20downside%20is%20that%20you%20have%20to%20buy%20nitrous%20oxide%20chargers%20for%20it,%20and%20even%20if%20you%20order%20them%20via%20Amazon%20Prime,%20you%20have%20to%20wait%20for%20a%20good%20week%20for%20them%20to%20arrive%20because%20they%20have%20to%20travel%20via%20ground%20delivery.%20Williams-Sonoma%20sells%20them%20too,%20which%20is%20where%20I%20got%20my%20first%20batch%20in%20order%20to%20dive%20into%20my%20experimentation%20right%20away.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EBut%20I%20digress.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EMy%20first%20few%20outings%20with%20the%20iSi%20were%20not%20the%20most%20successful%20because%20I%20went%20through%20nine%20of%20the%20ten%20chargers%20I%20purchased%20on%20only%20two%20recipes%20(whoops).%20Things%20were%20not%20coming%20out%20as%20fluffy%20as%20I%20expected,%20and%20particles%20were%20getting%20stuck%20and%20clogging%20up%20the%20line,%20especially%20when%20I%20first%20tried%20the%20sponge%20cake.%20This%20can%20definitely%20be%20attributed%20to%20the%20fact%20that%20I%20did%20not%20sift%20the%20dry%20ingredients%20prior%20to%20adding%20them%20to%20the%20batter,%20and%20when%20you%20use%20this%20tool,%20that%20is%20absolutely%20critical.%20Sifting%20flour%20is%20easy%20enough,%20but%20sifting%20the%2050%20grams%20of%20almond%20flour%20by%20hand%20took%20forever%20(read:%20a%20good%20half-hour)%20the%20second%20time%20I%20made%20the%20batter,%20but%20that%20time%20expenditure%20was%20totally%20worth%20the%20effort.%20The%20batter%20dispensed%20smoothly,%20and%20I%20dare%20say%20to%20a%20similar%20consistency%20as%20shown%20in%20the%20pictures%20of%20Lucky%20Peach%20and%20in%20the%20episode%20of%20Mind%20of%20a%20Chef.%20The%20only%20weird%20thing%20was%20that%20I%20was%20able%20to%20get%206%20cakes%20out%20of%20half%20the%20batter,%20but%20the%20whole%20recipe%20says%20it%20will%20yield%20six%20cakes.%20I%E2%80%99m%20going%20to%20have%20to%20try%20it%20once%20or%20twice%20more%20to%20figure%20out%20what%E2%80%99s%20going%20here.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EIn%20the%20meantime,%20though,%20if%20you%20do%20feel%20so%20inclined%20to%20try%20your%20hand%20at%20foams,%20I%20would%20strongly%20suggest%20making%20the%20yogurt%20version%20from%20The%20Family%20Meal.%20It%E2%80%99s%20a%20step%20up%20from%20conventional%20whipped%20cream%20and%20makes%20for%20a%20relatively%20effortless%20dessert%20when%20%20you%20scatter%20some%20berries%20over%20top.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EInstead%20of%20adding%20sugar%20I%20had%20the%20thought%20to%20add%20some%20St.%20Germain%20to%20see%20if%20the%20flavor%20would%20be%20picked%20up;%20four%20teaspoons%20of%20the%20stuff%20did%20give%20the%20yogurt%20a%20hint%20of%20elderflower,%20but%20I%20think%20a%20little%20more%20would%20be%20needed%20to%20really%20give%20it%20a%20distinct%20flavor.%20I%E2%80%99ll%20continue%20to%20work%20on%20that%20and%20hopefully%20come%20back%20with%20a%20modified%20recipe%20as%20the%20spring%20and%20summer%20unfold.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EYogurt%20Foam%20With%20Berries%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EAdapted%20from%20The%20Family%20Meal%20by%20Ferran%20Adri%C3%A0%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EServes%204-6%20depen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