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10.10.11 (dinner–first night with Ferran Adria’s Family Meal, last night as a twentysomething)
by
Elizabeth Schreiter
Calificación: 4.0
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%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ETurning%20thirty%20is%20a%20big%20deal%E2%80%A6unless%20you%20work%20in%20market%20research.%20While%20I%20had%20no%20problem%20milking%20the%20day%20for%20a%20few%20nice%20things%E2%80%93like%20two%20glasses%20of%20delicious%20wine%20at%20Barcelona%20on%20Tuesday%E2%80%93I%20can%20say%20upon%20reflection%20that%20I%20think%20I%20struggled%20more%20with%20turning%2025%20(and%20therefore%20will%20do%20the%20same%20once%2035%20rolls%20around)%20because%20it%20means%20I%E2%80%99m%20in%20a%20new%20demographic%20age%20bracket.%20I%E2%80%99m%20reminded%20of%20the%20season%20four%20premiere%20episode%20of%20Sex%20and%20the%20City%20when%20Carrie%20receives%20the%20application%20to%20join%20some%20singles%20group%20and%20she%20laments%20moving%20onto%20the%20next%20age%20box,%20because%20suddenly%20you%E2%80%99re%20now%20in%20a%20group%20that%E2%80%99s%20viewed%20very%20differently%20from%20the%20one%20you%20just%20left,%20and%20somehow%20that%20can%20make%20you%20feel%20older%20than%20any%20one%20particular%20birthday.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EBut%20since%20no%20age-box-shifting%20took%20place%20on%20this%20particular%20birthday,%20no%20melancholy%20is%20necessary,%20right?%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EThis%20year%E2%80%99s%20festivities%20were,%20on%20the%20whole,%20pretty%20great:%20I%20received%20some%20wonderful%20presents%20from%20M%20and%20my%20family,%20I%20got%20a%20mid-week%20trip%20to%20Barcelona%20(something%20we%E2%80%99re%20going%20to%20do%20more%20often%E2%80%93going%20out%20on%20Friday%20is%20for%20the%20birds),%20and%20this%20weekend%20I%E2%80%99ll%20get%20to%20indulge%20in%20some%20oysters%20and%20martinis%20at%20the%20Oyster%20House/Bar%20at%20Grand%20Central.%20Part%20of%20that%20present%20haul%20included%20a%20number%20of%20cookbooks:%20two%20traditional%20Spanish%20titles,%20Tom%20Colicchio%E2%80%99s%20Craft%20of%20Cooking,%20and%20Ferran%20Adri%C3%A1%E2%80%99s%20The%20Family%20Meal,%20probably%20the%20one%20I%20was%20most%20excited%20for%20after%20getting%20a%20taste%20of%20what%20it%20would%20contain%20in%20this%20Mark%20Bittman%20article%20from%20July.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EThe%20Family%20Table%20intrigued%20me%20so%20much%20because%20it%20was%20a%20fresh%20perspective%20on%20one%20of%20the%20most%20written-about%20restaurants%20in%20the%20last%20ten%20years:%20the%20recently%20departed%20elBulli.%20These%20aren%E2%80%99t%20the%20dishes%20that%20the%20staff%20of%2075%20put%20out%20every%20night%20for%20their%20customers,%20but%20rather%20are%20the%20ones%20that%20they%20would%20make%20for%20themselves%20before%20service,%20also%20known%20in%20the%20restaurant%20industry%20as%20the%20family%20meal.%20The%20book%20is%20broken%20up%20into%20sections:%20an%20introduction%20filled%20with%20full-page%20photos%20of%20the%20staff%20in%20action%20and%20eating,%20the%20requisite%20review%20of%20key%20tools%20and%20ingredients%20one%20should%20have%20on%20hand%20to%20make%20the%20dishes,%20another%20discussing%20the%20various%20sauces%20and%20stocks%20that%20they%20make%20and%20keep%20on%20hand,%20and%20finally%20a%20series%20of%20three-course%20meals%20with%20amounts%20given%20for%20two%20people%20all%20the%20way%20to%2075.%20(Michael%20likes%20to%20say%20that%20it%E2%80%99s%20a%20book%20for%20people%20who%20don%E2%80%99t%20like%20doing%20fractions.%20I%20say%20it%20makes%20the%20book%20more%20accessible%20for%20the%20home%20cook.)%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EUnlike%20what%20went%20out%20to%20diners%20for%20every%20seating%20at%20the%20restaurant,%20there%20is%20little%20in%20the%20way%20of%20kitchen%20wizardry%20contained%20herein,%20with%20only%20a%20few%20references%20to%20foams%20made%20and%20usually%20in%20the%20context%20of%20a%20dessert.%20Instead%20we%E2%80%99re%20treated%20to%20dishes%20that%20bear%20some%20resemblance%20to%20those%20found%20in%20Cocinar%20en%20Casa%20albeit%20with%20far%20less%20reliance%20on%20ready-made%20foods.%20It%E2%80%99s%20not%20simply%20a%20book%20of%20Spanish%20classics,%20either%E2%80%93influences%20from%20China,%20Mexico,%20Argentina%20and%20elsewhere%20make%20appearances,%20but%20seemingly%20with%20an%20elBulli%20twist.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EWe%20got%20our%20first%20indication%20of%20that%20when%20making%20the%20chimichurri%20sauce,%20which%20was%20definitely%20not%20the%20green%20version%20I%20was%20used%20to,%20but%20instead%20was%20red:%20chopped%20fresh%20tomatoes,%20parsley,%20garlic,%20cumin,%20vinegar,%20olive%20oil,%20chile.%20It%20was%20one%20of%20the%20few%20recipes%20that%20wasn%E2%80%99t%20scaled%20down%20for%20smaller%20amounts%20of%20diners%E2%80%93the%20smallest%20yield%20was%2014%20cups%E2%80%93but%20some%20quick%20math%20and%20Google%20conversions%20got%20us%20to%20the%20right%20proportions,%20even%20if%20we%20still%20have%20some%20leftovers.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EThe%20noodle%20dish%20was%20decidedly%20easy%20to%20whip%20up%20because%20while%20it%20required%20getting%20a%20few%20condiments%20from%20the%20Asian%20food%20section%20at%20Fairway,%20there%20wasn%E2%80%99t%20much%20in%20terms%20of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