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12.28.11: dinner (momofuku’s chicken and egg)
by
Elizabeth Schreiter
Calificación: 4.0
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%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ENeither%20Michael%20nor%20I%20said%20the%20actual%20words%20over%20the%20course%20of%20the%20last%20week%20of%202011,%20but%20in%20retrospect%20it%20was%20pretty%20clear%20we%20were%20both%20missing%20our%20tiny%20kitchen%20after%20four%20days%20of%20holiday%20celebrating%20with%20not%20much%20opportunity%20to%20get%20behind%20the%20stove.%20Day%20two%20of%20our%20mini-we-miss-New-York-Week%20(subtitle:%20the%20week%20we%20bounced%20back%20and%20forth%20between%20Tom%20Colicchio%20and%20David%20Chang%E2%80%99s%20cookbooks)%20was%20another%20%E2%80%9Clet%E2%80%99s%20take%20on%20a%20Serious%20Project!%E2%80%9D%20day%E2%80%93although%20while%20this%20is%20a%20dish%20that%20takes%20some%20time%20to%20make,%20with%20a%20little%20planning%20I%20could%20see%20us%20enjoying%20this%20on%20a%20random%20weekday%20evening.%20It%20was%20also%20a%20great%20opportunity%20to%20break%20in%20one%20of%20our%20Christmas%20presents%20(although%20that%20is%20a%20very%20poor%20choice%20of%20words%20given%20what%20it%20is):%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EA%20set%20of%20rice%20bowls!%20My%20brother-in-law%20is%20an%20artist%20(primarily%20painting)%20and%20a%20ceramics%20teacher%20(not%20his%20primary%20medium%20but%20Michael%20and%20his%20siblings%20are%20all%20naturally%20scary-good%20at%20ceramics)%20and%20so%20we%20have%20an%20apartment%20chock%20full%20of%20his%20original%20work%20and%20a%20budding%20collection%20of%20some%20beautiful%20dishes%20that%20he%E2%80%99s%20made%20for%20us%20in%20the%20studio:%20namely%20a%20coffee%20mug,%20a%20tea%20mug,%20and%20these%20bowls%20(of%20which%20there%20are%20four%20in%20all).%20While%20there%20was%20no%20way%20I%20would%20not%20serve%20chicken%20&%20egg%20in%20these%20vessels,%20I%20was%20a%20little%20concerned%20that%20they%E2%80%99d%20be%20too%20small%20given%20all%20of%20the%20delicious%20food%20that%20would%20be%20packed%20into%20them:%20brown%20rice,%20a%20poached%20egg,%20confit-ed%20chicken%20thigh,%20scallions,%20and%20the%20ever-addictive%20quick-salt%20pickles.%20It%E2%80%99s%20not%20easy%20to%20tell%20from%20these%20pictures,%20but%20they%20are%20about%20the%20diameter%20of%20a%20well-sized%20navel%20orange,%20more%20or%20less.%20That%E2%80%99s%20a%20lot%20of%20food%20to%20fit%20into%20half%20a%20navel%20orange.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EThat%20worrying%20was%20completely%20unfounded%20once%20we%20dug%20into%20our%20bowls%20and%20promptly%20were%20stuffed%20almost%20before%20we%20got%20down%20to%20the%20brown%20rice,%20and%20that%E2%80%99s%20because%20you%20basically%20cook%20chicken%20legs%20(or%20thighs%20only,%20in%20our%20case)%20in%20rendered%20fat%20that%E2%80%99s%20spiked%20with%20bacon%20to%20add%20smokiness.%20Ideally%20it%20turns%20into%20a%20confit%20of%20sorts,%20but%20we%20didn%E2%80%99t%20go%20that%20far%20on%20this%20try%E2%80%93this%20is%20where%20some%20additional%20time%20and%20planning%20ahead%20would%20have%20been%20even%20more%20helpful,%20but%20the%20chicken%20still%20came%20out%20really%20delicious%20despite%20us%20kind%20of%20skipping%20this%20step.%20(Forgive%20us,%20Chef%20Chang.)%20The%20chicken%20is%20then%20grilled%20skin-on%20and%20despite%20cooking%20in%20fat%20it%20came%20out%20quite%20crispy%E2%80%93then%20again,%20the%20same%20could%20be%20said%20for%20fried%20chicken,%20so%20that%20really%20should%20come%20as%20no%20surprise.%20But%20it%20does%20show%20you%20how%20often%20we%20deep-fry%20food%20in%20our%20household.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EEverything%20else%20came%20together%20smoothly%20and%20(mostly)%20perfectly.%20The%20rice%20needed%20time%20to%20cook,%20of%20course,%20but%20left%20on%20the%20stovetop%20it%20didn%E2%80%99t%20need%20much%20tending%20and%20it%20was%20nothing%20simpler%20than%20to%20run%20a%20knife%20through%20some%20scallions.%20The%20quick-salt%20pickles%20were%20also%20a%20breeze%20to%20make:%202%20Kirby/pickling%20cucumbers%20sliced%20thin%20either%20using%20a%20sharp%20knife%20or%20mandoline%20and%20then%20mixed%20with%201%20tablespoon%20each%20kosher%20salt%20and%20sugar,%20then%20letting%20them%20sit%20for%2010-15%20minutes%20before%20rinsing%20off%20the%20salt%20and%20sugar.%20One%20of%20my%20poached%20eggs%20was%20a%20little%20over-done%20(three%20minutes%20was%20a%20bit%20too%20long),%20but%20still%20edible,%20of%20course.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ESo%20maybe%20it%E2%80%99s%20not%20the%20most%20typical%20of%20weekday%20fare,%20but%20it%20did%20give%20our%20Wednesday%20night%20an%20injection%20of%20New%20York%20sophistication.%3C/p%3E){kind=link}