Receta Incanto Always Surprises

Strawberries with — what else — lardo. At Incanto.

I always think of Chris Cosentino of San Francisco’s Incanto as one brave chef.

After all, it’s the easiest thing in the world to attract diners with perfect grilled salmon or a great roast chicken.

But enticing them with organ meats — especially long before they became trendy ingredients — is one tough challenge.

Fortunately, Cosentino doesn’t buckle easily.

Thanks to his persistence and his delicious way with offal, so many more diners have learned to appreciate the odds, ends and bits that they once shunned.

Recently, my husband and I had a chance to dine at this popular Noe Valley restaurant. Although we paid our tab, Cosentino sent out a few…