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Officially up and running
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Kenzi Wilbur
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%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EThis%20book%20is%20truly%20amazing,%20and%20if%20you%20don't%20own%20it%20yet,%20I%20suggest%20you%20pick%20yourself%20up%20a%20copy%20before%20I%20hoard%20them%20all%20to%20give%20as%20presents.%20It's%20worth%20the%20splurge,%20I%20promise.%20It's%20as%20much%20a%20piece%20of%20art%20as%20it%20is%20a%20cookbook;%20I%20often%20pick%20it%20back%20up%20just%20to%20look%20through%20all%20of%20the%20photos.%20For%20the%20longest%20time,%20I%20was%20afraid%20to%20put%20in%20on%20the%20counter.%20This%20is%20the%20kind%20of%20book%20so%20pretty%20that%20you%20want%20to%20put%20it%20in%20a%20frame%20instead%20of%20next%20to%20a%20bubbling%20pot%20on%20the%20stove.%20But%20that%20would%20be%20a%20mistake.%20A%20big,%20big%20mistake,%20because%20there%20is%20so%20much%20to%20learn%20in%20there,%20like%20how%20to%20make%20French-Laundry-perfect%20pasta.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EThis%20is%20all%20a%20very%20round%20about%20way%20of%20saying%20that%20the%20pasta%20maker%20is%20officially%20up%20and%20running.%20I'm%20sorry,%20I%20know,%20I%20could%20have%20just%20led%20with%20that.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EI%20made%20the%20pasta%20dough%20a%20few%20days%20ago,%20mostly%20as%20a%20dry%20run.%20I%20practiced%20kneading,%20rolling,%20and%20cutting%20fresh%20pasta,%20and%20I'm%20quite%20certain%20that%20it%20might%20be%20my%20new%20favorite%20thing%20to%20make%20if%20I%20have%20a%20whole%20afternoon%20to%20burn,%20or%20a%20paper%20to%20procrastinate.%20And%20get%20this:%20according%20to%20Thomas%20Keller,%20you%20can't%20over-knead%20pasta%20dough.%20I'm%20not%20lying.%20It%20says%20in%20his%20book,%20almost%20verbatim,%20that%20when%20you%20think%20you're%20done%20kneading,%20go%20for%20another%20ten%20minutes.%20If%20that%20doesn't%20get%20you%20excited%20about%20making%20pasta,%20then%20I%20don't%20know%20what%20will.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EI%20made%20a%20really%20quick%20shrimp%20scampi%20with%20the%20noodles%20I%20had%20rolled%20out,%20and%20for%20a%20first%20time%20go,%20I%20thought%20I%20did%20a%20pretty%20bang-up%20job.%20Unfortunately,%20it%20didn't%20make%20it%20into%20a%20picture,%20both%20because%20I%20was%20too%20hungry%20and%20my%20arms%20were%20too%20tired%20from%20all%20the%20kneading.%20But,%20I%20can%20tell%20you,%20the%20pasta%20was%20eggy,%20tender,%20and%20right%20on%20the%20verge%20of%20still%20being%20elastic%20-%20exactly%20what%20you%20want%20to%20eat%20on%20a%20chilly,%20fall%20night%20while%20wearing%20a%20big,%20burly%20sweater.%20Actually,%20if%20that%20doesn't%20get%20you%20excited%20about%20making%20pasta,%20then%20I%20don't%20know%20what%20will.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EPasta%20Dough%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3E(Ripped%20straight,%20and%20not%20adapted,%20from%20The%20French%20Laundry%20Cookbook.%20Because%20messing%20with%20Thomas%20Keller's%20recipes%20would%20be%20pretty%20close%20to%20sacrilege,%20in%20my%20religion.)%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EMound%20the%20flour%20on%20a%20clean%20surface%20and%20make%20a%20well%20in%20the%20center%20with%20edges%20tall%20enough%20to%20hold%20the%20egg%20mixture%20without%20spilling.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ECombine%20all%20other%20ingredients%20and%20pour%20into%20the%20well.%20Use%20your%20fingers%20to%20break%20up%20the%20eggs%20a%20bit,%20and%20begin%20to%20stir%20the%20mixture,%20slowly%20incorporating%20the%20flour%20from%20the%20edges.%20Be%20careful%20not%20to%20let%20the%20eggs%20spill%20from%20the%20well,%20and%20also%20be%20careful%20to%20incorporate%20the%20flour%20slowly%20enough%20so%20it%20won't%20get%20lumpy.%20Occasionally%20push%20the%20flour%20using%20your%20hands,%20all%20the%20while%20continuing%20the%20circular%20stirring%20motion%20with%20your%20fingers.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EWhen%20the%20dough%20gets%20too%20tight%20to%20keep%20stirring%20with%20your%20fingers,%20start%20cutting%20the%20remaining%20flour%20into%20the%20dough.%20When%20most%20of%20the%20flour%20has%20been%20incorporated,%20it%20will%20look%20shaggy%20but%20hold%20together.%20At%20this%20point,%20begin%20kneading%20by%20pushing%20it%20forward%20with%20the%20heels%20of%20your%20hands.%20Form%20it%20back%20into%20a%20ball,%20and%20knead%20again.%20Repeat%20this%20process%20until%20dough%20is%20no%20longer%20shaggy.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ELet%20dough%20rest%20while%20you%20clean%20your%20work%20surface.%20Sprinkle%20some%20flour%20down,%20and%20begin%20to%20knead%20again,%20in%20the%20same%20motion,%20until%20dough%20becomes%20almost%20silky.%20When%20you%20think%20you're%20done,%20go%20for%20another%20ten%20minutes.%20(!)%20The%20dough%20is%20ready%20with%20it%20passes%20the%20pull%20test:%20it%20should%20want%20to%20snap%20back%20into%20place%20when%20you%20pull%20a%20section%20of%20it.%20Double-wrap%20in%20plastic%20wrap%20and%20let%20it%20rest%20at%20least%2030%20minutes%20before%20rolling%20it%20out.%3C/p%3E){kind=link}