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Taming but not extinguishing a powerful flavor: Linguine with Eggplant and Lamb
by
Blue Kitchen
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.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EYou%20can%E2%80%99t%20help%20but%20wonder%E2%80%94at%20least%20I%20can%E2%80%99t%E2%80%94if%20that%20more%20colorful%20name%20might%20have%20made%20eggplant%20more%20popular%20than%20it%20is%20here.%20Would%20seeing%20aubergine%20(oh-behr-zheen)%20on%20a%20menu%20or%20on%20the%20produce%20shelf%20make%20it%20seem%20more%20elegant,%20more%20desirable?%20Naysayers%20would%20probably%20say,%20well,%20nay,%20citing%20eggplant%E2%80%99s%20distinctive%20bitter%20taste.%20All%20the%20while%20sipping%20their%20bitter%20coffee%20and%20nibbling%20on%20bitter%20dark%20chocolate.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EDone%20right%20and%20in%20small%20doses,%20bitter%20can%20be%20a%20wonderful%20flavor%20note.%20It%20is%20specifically%20eggplant%E2%80%99s%20bitter%20edge%20that%20makes%20classic%20dishes%20like%20eggplant%20Parmigiana%20and%20moussaka%20such%20enduring%20favorites.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ETo%20salt%20or%20not%20to%20salt.%20One%20popular%20method%20for%20taming%20some%20of%20the%20bitterness%20in%20eggplant%20is%20to%20salt%20it%20a%20good%20half%20hour%20before%20cooking%20to%20leach%20out%20the%20bitter%20flavors.%20Just%20as%20many%20cooks%20these%20days,%20though,%20say%20it%E2%80%99s%20not%20necessary.%20Sometimes%20we%20do,%20other%20times%20we%20don%E2%80%99t.%20The%20best%20explanation%20I%E2%80%99ve%20found%20for%20salting%20or%20not%20salting%20and%20what%20it%20actually%20does%20comes%20from%20My%20Recipes.%20In%20essence,%20salting%20does%20make%20eggplant%20less%20bitter,%20but%20not%20because%20it%20draws%20out%20the%20bitterness.%20Salt%20just%20makes%20all%20bitter%20things%20taste%20less%20so.%20Salting%20does%20draw%20out%20moisture,%20firming%20up%20the%20eggplant.%20For%20dishes%20like%20the%20aforementioned%20eggplant%20Parmigiana,%20that%20helps%20the%20slices%20hold%20their%20shape%20better.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EAlso,%20the%20bigger%20the%20eggplant,%20the%20more%20pronounced%20the%20bitterness.%20For%20this%20recipe,%20I%20used%20a%20medium%20eggplant,%20about%20one%20pound.%20I%20didn%E2%80%99t%20salt%20it%20beforehand.%20The%20salt%20in%20the%20cooked%20dish,%20along%20with%20the%20half%20and%20half%20added%20at%20the%20end,%20nicely%20mellowed%20the%20eggplant%E2%80%99s%20bitterness,%20without%20causing%20it%20to%20totally%20lose%20its%20distinctive%20flavor.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ELinguine%20with%20Eggplant%20and%20Lamb%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EServes%204%20to%206%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EDo%20your%20prep%20work.%20This%20dish%20has%20a%20number%20of%20moving%20parts,%20but%20happens%20quickly%20in%20the%20end,%20so%20get%20everything%20ready%20up%20front.%20First,%20toast%20the%20breadcrumbs.%20In%20a%20large%20nonstick%20pan,%20heat%201/2%20tablespoon%20olive%20oil%20over%20a%20medium%20flame.%20Add%20the%20breadcrumbs%20and%20toss%20to%20coat%20with%20oil.%20Cook,%20stirring%20frequently,%20until%20golden%20brown,%203%20to%205%20minutes.%20Transfer%20to%20a%20plate%20or%20shallow%20bowl%20and%20let%20cool%20completely.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ENext,%20pour%20the%20tomatoes%20into%20a%20large%20bowl%20and%20crush%20the%20whole%20tomatoes%20by%20hand.%20Yes,%20you%20can%20buy%20crushed%20tomatoes,%20but%20this%20is%20fun%E2%80%94and%20authentically%20Italian.%20Do%20it.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EIn%20a%20large%20saut%C3%A9%20pan,%20heat%201%20tablespoon%20of%20oil%20over%20a%20medium-high%20flame.%20Add%20the%20ground%20lamb%20and%20season%20it%20with%20half%20of%20the%20oregano,%20salt%20and%20pepper.%20Brown%20the%20lamb%20for%20about%205%20minutes.%20It%20doesn%E2%80%99t%20have%20to%20be%20really%20browned,%20just%20not%20pink.%20Transfer%20to%20a%20paper%20towel-lined%20plate%20with%20a%20slotted%20spoon%20and%20set%20aside.%20Let%20the%20saut%C3%A9%20pan%20cool%20slightly,%20then%20wipe%20it%20out%20with%20paper%20towels,%20but%20don%E2%80%99t%20wash%20it.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EHeat%203%20tablespoons%20of%20oil%20in%20the%20pan%20over%20a%20medium%20flame.%20Add%20the%20eggplant%20and%20toss%20to%20coat%20with%20oil.%20Brown%20for%202%20or%203%20minutes,%20stirring%20frequently.%20Make%20a%20hole%20in%20the%20middle%20of%20the%20pan,%20drizzle%20in%20more%20oil%20(the%20eggplant%20will%20soak%20it%20up%20like%20crazy)%20and%20add%20the%20onion.%20Cook,%20stirring%20frequently,%20for%201%20minute,%20then%20toss%20with%20the%20eggplant%20and%20continue%20cooking,%20stirring%20occasionally,%20for%202%20minutes.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EMake%20another%20hole%20in%20the%20middle,%20drizzle%20in%20more%20oil%20(if%20needed)%20and%20add%20the%20minced%20garlic%20and%20remaining%20oregano.%20Cook,%20stirring%20constantly,%20until%20fragrant,%20about%2045%20seconds.%20Add%20tomatoes%20and%20lamb%20to%20pan,%20stirring%20to%20combine%20and%20scraping%20up%20any%20browned%20bits.%20When%20mixture%20comes%20to%20a%20boil,%20reduce%20heat%20and%20simmer%20uncovered%20for%208%20to%2010%20minutes.%20Stir%20in%20half%20and%20half%20and%20remove%20from%20heat.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EMeanwhile,%20cook%20the%20pasta%20according%20to%20package%20directions%20until%20just%20al%20dente.%20Drain%20and%20divide%20among%20shallow%20bowls.%20Top%20with%20eggplant%20sauce%20and%20sprinkle%20each%20serving%20with%20breadcrumbs.%20Serve.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EKitchen%20Notes%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EHow%20much%20pasta?%20How%20many%20servings?%20With%2012%20ounces%20of%20pasta,%20this%20will%20generously%20serve%204%20as%20a%20main%20course.%20With%2016%20ounces%20of%20pasta,%20you%20can%20stretch%20it%20to%206%20servings%20as%20a%20primo%20or%20first%20course.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3Eaubergine%20recipes,%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3Eeggplant%20pasta,%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3Eeggplant%20recipes%3C/p%3E){kind=link}