Receta The perfect sandwich for summer
“When my
husband and I acquired our farmhouse in Provence…, our visits were generally
limited to weekend getaways from Paris. For the train ride back to the city, a
snack was essential, and pan bagnat, or "bathed bread,"
the Provençal sandwich found at every bakery and market in the region, became
our standby. It's inexpensive, travels well, and includes many of our favorite
Provençal ingredients: tomatoes, local bell peppers, black niçoise olives,
anchovies and tuna, salt, and pepper—a salade niçoise, effectively, between
slices of crusty bread. I'd prepare the sandwiches on Saturday, scooping out
some of the crumb of the bread, then letting the pan bagnat marinate,
tightly wrapped and weighted down in the refrigerator, until departure time the
next day, which always made for moist and satisfying sandwiches.” You have no idea how I wish I didn’t have to add the
quotation marks around these words from Patricia Wells, in her most recent book —“Salad as a Meal” (William Morrow, 2011). Because
if there was ever anywhere on earth I’d love to live it would be in
France. And memories of a long ago visit
to Provence come sweeping back at the mere mention of Pan Bagnat.
Our
‘cooking vacation’ took place in the tiny town of Bonnieux in the Luberon, the rocky heart of
Provence. Every day we’d set out in our
enormous Citroen and visit the tiny towns that dot the area. Every day another market would entice us with
its cheeses, breads, olives, all the makings of great picnics. At the end of the day we’d return home where
our hostess awaited our return. Seated
at her kitchen table glasses of Kir or Rose in hand, we’d watch and learn as
the great Nathalie Waag prepared our multi-course dinners. Nathalie was a true Provencal cook. She used every local ingredient from every
local market. The meals were amazing as
much for their simplicity as for their flavors.
It was a magical week. And when we returned home we took everything we’d learned home
with us. Though Nathalie never imparted
the secret of Pan Bagnat, we’d picnicked on variations of the sandwich at every
opportunity. Because even though today’s
version is made with tuna, its close Italian cousin, “Pan Bagna”, can be filled
with charcuterie –salami, mortadella, and prosciutto. Learning how to make
these sandwiches can make summer lunches and picnics a snap. But I did make a change that made
a big difference from my first encounters with the sandwich.
The Original Pan Bagnat...
very hard to handle
as you can see. The
original recipe calls for a big round loaf of bread. The bread is scooped out to give the layers
of ingredients all the space they need.
The top is then put back on top, the sandwich weighted down and left in
the refrigerator overnight. The result
is rather daunting to serve. Cut into
wedges, the resulting serving belies the
whole idea of a sandwich: Something
which can be picked up and eaten with your hands. The original Pan Bagna makes it almost
impossible to perform this feat. It’s
too big and ungainly. So when I made Ms.
Well’s Pan Bagna, I chose not a round but a rectangular loaf of country bread. Not only did this make it possible
to pick it up with your hands and eat it, it also allowed another
breakthrough. In our house, one
ingredient, in particular, does not fly.
It’s the black olive. Andrew
simply does not like them. But by using
the rectangular loaf I could load one side of the sandwich with everything but the
black olives while on the other, I loaded them on for myself. As long as I could keep track of which end
was which, I was home free—enjoying my black olives while Andrew encountered
not a single one. You can do this with
any ingredient in the list. As to the
tuna, I had a beautiful grilled tuna steak left over from Anna Pump’s Grilled
Tuna Steak with Lemon Sauce. http://www.chewingthefat.us.com/2013/06/anna-pumps-grilled-fresh-tuna-steaks.html. You can, of course, follow Ms. Well’s recipe
and use canned tuna. But please find the best can you can. It will make all the
difference. Here’s the recipe:
Recipe
for Tuna Pan Bagna from Patricia Wells.
Serves 4. Comes together in under 30 minutes. Rests overnight
or for a minimum of 4 hours.
- 2 ripe tomatoes, cored and thinly sliced crosswise
- Kosher salt, to taste
- 1 (5-oz.) can olive oil-packed tuna, drained
- 4 scallions, thinly sliced
- ½ small red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and
- thinly sliced into 2" lengths
- ⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil
- 1 tbsp. Dijon mustard
- 1 (7") round rustic bread loaf, split
- (about 20 oz.)
- 1 small bulb fennel, cored and thinly sliced
- crosswise
- 1 small cucumber, thinly sliced crosswise
- 2 hard-boiled eggs, thinly sliced crosswise
- 8 oil-cured anchovies, drained
- 10 salt-cured black olives, pitted and halved
- Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
- 1. Sprinkle tomato slices liberally with salt and transfer to
a colander; set aside to drain for 30 minutes.
In a small bowl, break up tuna
with a fork and stir in scallions and bell pepper; set aside. In another small
bowl, whisk together oil and mustard; set dressing aside.
Scoop the insides
from the bread loaf and discard or reserve for another use.
Place tomatoes
evenly over bottom of bread and then top with fennel and cucumbers; spread tuna
mixture over top, and then top with egg slices, anchovies, and olives. Pour
dressing evenly over ingredients, and season with salt and pepper; cover with
top of bread, pressing lightly to compact.
2. Wrap sandwich tightly in plastic wrap and
place on a baking sheet;
top with another baking sheet and weight with a
cast-iron skillet. Refrigerate for at least 4 hours or overnight.