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Receta Vinegar Braised Chicken with Onions
by Monte Mathews

Catherine de Medici

Mother of 3 French

Kings

As far back as the 16th century, Lyon, not Paris, has been the

gastronomical capital of France. It was

then that Catherine de Medici, the Queen Consort of King Henry II, an Italian

noblewoman by birth, brought cooks from Florence to the French court. They prepared dishes from the agricultural

products from the various regions of France. This was revolutionary, combining

the know-how of the Italian cooks with the unmatched produce of France. The resulting regional dishes were elevated

in status because they were, after all, what royalty and the nobility were

eating. The cuisine created in Lyon

represented the crossroads of many regional specialties. A terrific variety of ingredients were available: summer vegetables from

farms in Bresse—to say nothing of its famous chickens—and neighboring

Charolais, game from the Dombes, fish from lakes in Savoy, spring’s first

fruits and vegetables from Drome and Ardeche and of course, the wines of

Beaujolais and the Rhone Valley.

No matter where you travel in

France, you will find Restaurants

aux Lyonnais, serving the

regional cuisine that's made Lyon

famous.

The Lyonnaise

tradition of great food continued into the nineteenth century, when middle

class women, called “Les Meres Lyonnaise” (Lyonnaise Mothers) took up

work as cooks and created a whole vocabulary of new culinary discoveries – all

of which incorporated their regional roots. In 1935, France’s pre-eminent food

critic, Curonsky, called Lyon “the world capital of gastronomy.” To this day, the city has one of the highest

concentrations of restaurants per capita in France and it’s well worth a

visit. Dishes like “Poulet Braise au

Vinaigre” or Vinegar Braised Chicken and Onions, could not be more

Lyonnais. In fact, “Sauce Lyonnais”, one

the backbones of the French saucier’s art, consists of white wine, onions,

vinegar and small bits of meat—usually leftovers. While this recipe adds golden raisins and uses both Red Wine and Balsamic Vinegars, it's heart is still firmly planted in Lyon. It's wonderful, budget-friendly comfort food. You can use whatever chicken parts appeal to

you. As a dark meat lover, I used only

drumsticks and thighs. You could easily

swap out these out for cut-up breasts or a mixture of white and dark meat. The onions I used were those already peeled

and ready to go pearl onions from the frozen food section. They save a great deal of time. And the pancetta “Cubette”, already diced pancetta, are ideal and another

labor saver. At Trader Joe’s, they are particularly well-priced. Here’s what to look for.

This is not a particularly time-consuming meal.

The real effort here involves getting a really good browning on the

chicken. I was dealing with a rather

small Dutch oven so there were more batches to be browned that if I’d used my

bigger Dutch oven. After that it’s just

a matter of a gentle simmer on the stove for 35 to 45 minutes. By the way, you

can easily half the recipe and still get perfect results. Here’s the recipe:

Recipe

for Vinegar Braised Chicken and Onions

Or Poulet Saute au Vinaigre

6 Servings. About 1.5 hours start to finish.

1.

Heat oil in

a large heavy pot over medium heat. Add pancetta to pot

and cook,

stirring occasionally, until fat is rendered and pancetta is brown, 8-10

minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer pancetta to a large bowl.

2.

Add onions to

same pot and cook, stirring occasionally,

until beginning to brown, 8-10 minutes.

Add garlic

and cook, stirring often, until fragrant, about 3 minutes.

Transfer

onions and garlic to bowl with pancetta.

3.

Season

chicken with salt and pepper. Working in batches, add chicken to pot skin

side down and cook, turning, until browned on all sides, 10-

15 minutes

per batch; transfer to bowl with onions.

4.

Carefully

drain fat from pot and return to medium-high heat. Add both

vinegars to pot and bring to a boil, stirring and scraping up any browned

bits from bottom of pot. Add broth, raisins, bay leaves, and reserved

chicken, pancetta, onions, and garlic to pot. Bring to a boil,

reduce heat, and simmer partially covered, until chicken is

fork-tender, 35-40 minutes.

5.

Using a

slotted spoon, transfer chicken and onions to a large platter. Skim fat from cooking liquid and discard. Remove bay leaves, and season sauce

with salt and pepper. Spoon sauce over chicken and onions.