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Vintage Sunday: White Easter Borscht
by
Dave Sacerdote
Calificación: 4.0
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%20Bertha%20(Auntie%20B,)%20and%20Nellie%20(Auntie%20Nellie%20-%20no%20nickname,%20imagine%20that!)%20%20There%20was%20rye%20bread%20and%20babka%20(a%20kind%20of%20Polish%20sweet%20bread),%20%20piergoi,%20%20decorated%20hard-boiled%20eggs,%20kielbasa,%20mushrooms,%20horseradish...and%20white%20borscht.%20%20The%20borscht%20was%20the%20centerpiece%20of%20the%20meal.%20%20Everyone%20cut%20up%20some%20kielbasa%20into%20a%20wide,%20shallow%20soup%20plate%20and%20added%20broken-up%20hard-boiled%20egg%20and%20rye%20bread,%20then%20seasoned%20it%20with%20horseradish%20and%20dug%20in.%20Maryanne%20and%20the%20Aunts%20loved%20it.%20%20I%20gamely%20choked%20down%20a%20bowl%20and%20apparently%20passed%20some%20kind%20of%20acid%20test%20for%20family%20acceptance;%20from%20then%20on,%20Maryanne's%20aunts%20were%20my%20aunts%20too%20and%20Auntie%20Pat,%20especially,%20thought%20of%20me%20as%20a%20nephew%20rather%20than%20a%20nephew-in-law.%20%20Sometime%20later,%20Auntie%20Pat%20gave%20me%20her%20mother's%20recipe%20for%20white%20borscht,%20and%20told%20me%20it%20was%20my%20turn%20to%20make%20it%20next%20time.%20%20It's%20been%20%22my%20turn%22%20ever%20since.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ELike%20many%20other%20ethnic%20holiday%20foods,%20there%20are%20almost%20as%20many%20variations%20of%20white%20borscht%20as%20there%20are%20families%20who%20prepare%20it,%20but%20the%20basic%20flavoring%20-%20fermented%20rye%20-%20seems%20to%20be%20constant.%20%20The%20recipe%20passed%20down%20to%20Maryanne%20and%20I%20uses%20oatmeal%20and%20rye%20with%20a%20touch%20of%20white%20flour,%20mixed%20with%20water%20and%20allowed%20to%20ferment%20for%203%20to%205%20days.%20%20Let%20me%20tell%20you,%20the%20finished%20soup%20is%20an%20acquired%20taste,%20and%20even%20though%20I%20try%20it%20again%20every%20year,%20%20I%20still%20-%20after%20more%20than%2025%20years%20-%20don't%20like%20it.%20%20Nevertheless,%20I%20make%20a%20batch%20which%20Maryanne%20enjoys,%20I%20tolerate%20for%20the%20sake%20of%20tradition%20and%20Auntie%20Pat's%20memory,%20and%20the%20rest%20of%20the%20family%20holds%20their%20noses%20and%20gags%20at.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EWhite%20Easter%20Borscht%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EFerment%20the%20mixture%20in%20a%20warm%20place.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EI%20set%20the%20pot%20on%20top%20of%20my%20pellet%20stove.Put%20all%20four%20ingredients%20in%20a%20beanpot%20or%20earthenware%20crock,%20and%20stir%20with%20a%20fork%20until%20everything%20is%20combined.%20%20Let%20stand%20for%20three%20to%20five%20days,%20until%20it%20sours.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EWhen%20ready%20to%20make%20the%20soup%20(Easter%20morning,)%20%20cook%20your%20morning%20kielbasa%20in%20water%20and%20reserve%20the%20water%20when%20the%20kielbasa%20is%20done.%20%20Measure%20out%201%C2%BD%20quarts%20of%20the%20kielbasa%20broth%20into%20a%20saucepan%20and%20bring%20to%20a%20boil.%20%20Stir%20in%20the%20oatmeal%20mixture%20and%20cook%20until%20the%20soup%20thickens.%20%20Strain%20the%20thickened%20broth%20into%20a%20soup%20tureen%20or%20pot%20and%20season%20to%20taste%20with%20salt%20and%20black%20pepper.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EMaryanne's%20family%20had%20another%20Easter%20tradition,%20which%20is%20so%20much%20fun%20that%20my%20family%20has%20adopted%20it,%20too.%20As%20everyone%20comes%20in%20the%20door%20for%20Easter%20breakfast,%20they%20take%20a%20colored%20egg%20and%20clack%20it%20against%20someone%20else's%20egg,%20wishing%20%22Happy%20Easter!%22%20%20If%20your%20eggshelll%20cracks,%20you're%20out%20of%20the%20game.%20%20This%20egg-cracking%20goes%20on%20until%20only%20one%20person%20remains.%20%20There's%20no%20prize%20involved%20but%20the%20bragging%20rights%20to%20having%20the%20most%20hardcore%20egg-smashing%20skillz,%20but%20it's%20entertaining%20and%20we%20always%20have%20a%20good%20time.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EWe%20had%20a%20particularly%20good%20time%20one%20year,%20when%20I%20colored%20a%20%22special%22%20egg%20for%20my%20sister%20Lori.%20%20It%20was%20raw;%20needless%20to%20say,%20she%20was%20%22eliminated%22%20in%20the%20first%20round%20of%20competition%20and%20I%20had%20a%20hell%20of%20a%20mess%20to%20clean%20up%20(a%20job%20made%20all%20the%20more%20difficult%20by%20hardly%20being%20able%20to%20stop%20laughing.)%20%20That%20was%20like,%20eight%20years%20ago,%20and%20Lori%20still%20doesn't%20quite%20trust%20me%20at%20Easter%20-%20she%20always%20spins%20her%20egg%20to%20make%20sure%20it's%20hard%20boiled%20before%20she%20goes%20for%20the%20impact.%3C/p%3E){kind=link}