Receta Washington Post's - Express Night Out
TRADITIONALLY, D.C. has represented itself well in televised cooking competitions. "Hell's Kitchen" winner (and Virginia native) Rock Harper promptly installed himself at the upscale Ben's Chili Bowl affiliate Next Door after fulfilling the Las Vegas obligations that constituted his prize. José Andrés defeated Bobby Flay on an episode of "Iron Chef America." And locals have even fared well on Bravo favorite "Top Chef," with kooky Wheaton caterer Carla Hall a runner-up in the fifth season, and onetime New Yorker Spike Mendelsohn migrating south to open his Good Stuff Eatery following his season four appearance.
So why is there no love for the District on the latest Bravo offering, "Top Chef Masters"? New Yorkers predictably predominate, although there's a large Californian contingent as well. Texas, New Orleans, Miami, Las Vegas and the Southwest all get some representation. All D.C. can claim is Art Smith, who despite running Art and Soul at the Liason Capitol Hill Hotel, is far better known for his Chicago affiliations: the Table 52 restaurant and a stint as Oprah's personal chef.
Assuming Smith's trademark hoecakes don't win it all, here are a few suggestions for D.C. area chefs who would have brought both skill and a bit of drama to the series.
» Carole Greenwood (pictured above)
Unaffiliated
Unlike her peers on this list, Carole Greenwood is not too busy in the kitchen or plotting a new venture to take on a reality TV project. In fact, just a few days ago came a formal acknowledgment that Greenwood had Comet Ping Pong.
Now sole owner James Alefantis told the Washington Post's Tom Sietsema that Greenwood plans on pursuing opportunities in "food writing, music and art." There's no reason that vague list couldn't include television as well.
Greenwood certainly has the culinary record to warrant inclusion on the "Masters" edition, having been executive chef at her own Greenwood restaurant before moving on to her recent projects. Perhaps more important, her abrupt departure signals that she has considerable entertainment potential as well. How would a chef who was known to get histrionic over minor menu substitutions respond to a "make an amuse-bouche out of ingredients in this vending machine" quickfire challenge? Sadly, we can only speculate.
» K.N. Vinod
Indique, Indique Heights, Bombay Bistro
While chef and restaurateur K.N. Vinod doesn't bring the temperamental flair of a Carole Greenwood, he does have a lengthy career preparing both Indian classics and his own creative interpretations. His deconstructed samosa demonstrates the kind of playfulness "Top Chef" judges typically enjoy, and the scalloped veal with orange salsa on the Indique menu indicates a willingness to experiment. He also possesses what is perhaps the best mustache in the D.C. area.
» Michael Landrum
Ray's the Steaks, Ray's the Classics, Ray's Hell-Burger
It is always interesting when "Top Chef" includes a contestant with a clear specialty, and Michael Landrum is well-equipped to fill that role. Although his seafood and side dishes have been well-received, Landrum is best known for one thing: beef. Since opening the original Ray's the Steaks in 2002 (it has since relocated), Landrum has focused on providing diners with excellent steaks without the pretense. Even following Obama and Biden's recent lunch excursion to Ray's Hell-Burger, it seems certain that Landrum will continue to provide quality, unfussy cooking, and on "Top Chef Masters" might have some conflict with his more precious, molecular gastronomy-inclined peers. For the record, our money is on Landrum in a hypothetical throwdown with wd-50 proprietor Wylie Dufresne (an actual contestant).
» Dimitri Moshovitis
Cava Rockville, Cava Capitol Hill
Moshovitis may be little-known outside of the D.C. area thus far, but he is doing everything in his power to change that. Not only has he expanded his Greek mezze restaurant Cava into a second location on Capitol Hill, he has also begun marketing a range of Cava's mezze spreads through local Whole Foods outlets. Greek cuisine has been mostly unrepresented on "Top Chef," but more interesting would be seeing how well Moshovitis could adapt from the small-plate mentality. It seems as though his mezze focus could serve him well in quickfire challenges, but since his entree repertoire is completely unknown, he could end up performing well or awfully in the elimination rounds.
» Nora Poullion
Restaurant Nora
Nora Poullion was at the forefront of the local, organic and sustainable foods movement in this area, and her restaurant received the first-ever organic certification. D.C.'s answer to Alice Waters could certainly go to town on a farmer's market challenge, and like Greenwood, it would be fun to see her attempt one of the more lowbrow quickfires, assuming the "Masters" will be compelled to work with canned goods, Swanson's broth, or vending machine snacks as on previous seasons. Poullion also ran Asia Nora for a decade, so she clearly feels comfortable working with foreign cuisines.
Written by Express contributor Meg Zamula
Photos by The Washington Post, Stacy Zarin, Louis Raimondo