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Receta Zucchini Quesadillas with Spicy Rioja Salsa
by Monte Mathews

Food and Wine's Version As

I was working my way through last month’s Food and Wine, I came to an overhead

shot of a crispy, toasted tortilla topped with bright red chiles and cilantro

leaves. I was taken with the photo and I

was consumed by the recipe. It’s vegetarian so perfect for those meatless meals

I am trying to achieve at least once a week.

And I love a great Quesadilla, with the cheese oozing out the sides of

the tortilla and filled inside with any number of meaty ingredients like a tinga of puerco, pollo or carne.

This Quesadilla has none of those.

Instead it’s filled with a smoky flavored salsa made with roasted

tomatoes, onions and garlic, thin slices of zucchini and as much Monterrey Jack

cheese as you can stuff into it. It’s

pure Mexican street food but it was invented in a place that’s about un-Mexican

as anywhere in Los Angeles CA. It’s on Beverly Boulevard between Beverly Hills

and Hancock Park.

Chef Walter Manzke Of Petty Cash LA

Chef

Walter Manzke has been involved with food since his childhood in San Diego but

it was in neighboring Tijuana that he got much of his inspiration for Petty

Cash, which is referred to on their own website as a 'semi-authentic taqueria' (www.pettycashtaqueria.com). With his

partner Bill Chait and a whole kitchen full of authentic Mexican cooks, Chef

Manzke has created a menu of classic Mexican street food with a California twist. Everything is local, seasonal and sustainable.Petty Cash's Interior

The place itself is a

treat: Hand painted murals—even some

graffiti done by the kitchen staff—cover the walls. The dining area surrounds the bar with

communal picnic tables and benches. There’s even a back room with shuffleboard.

The name of the place, Petty Cash sounds like a fairly obvious sign that this

is wallet-friendly food. In fact, the

taqueria takes its name not from the cash drawer but a cover band of the same

name that confines their performances entirely to Johnny Cash and Tom Petty

covers. Don’t ask me why, because I could

not find an answer. The Chef must just enjoy the band. Petty Cash is at

7360 Beverly Boulevard, Los Angeles CA 90036. You can make reservations on www.opentable.com.

The Blender is best reserved for

the Margaritas recommended to be served

with your Quesadilla. On

the other hand, you could just stay home and produce Petty Cash’s Zucchini

Quesadilla all by yourself. First you

roast some tomatoes, garlic and an onion under the broiler. I cheated a bit here because I had an opened

container of Pomi Tomatoes and since the dish goes right into the blender, I

saw no reason not to use them. When the tomato season arrives however, I’d go

with the real deal and broil those instead. As to the chiles, arbols are easy to find,

Fresno chiles not so easy, but if you

have trouble, substitute the ubiquitous jalapeno. Also, the cooking instructions recommended

using a blender to make the Rioja Salsa.

I wish my blender had come through on this one but I would substitute a

Cuisinart in a second. A blender is

perfectly fine for pureeing but in this case there are 6 fairly woody chiles

that it has to grind up. Mine just

didn’t do it right. So I ended up with

two things to clean: A blender and a Cuisinart.

The rest of it is a snap. Just

slice your zucchini about 1/8 inch thick, put the slices on a tortilla that’s

in the cooking pan and cover that with lots of cheese. Spread the red salsa on

the other tortilla, and top that with the salsa covered one. The recipe called for cast iron. I was making

two of these and wanted to cook them at the same time so I used two non-stick

skillets. The dish emerged from them

perfectly browned. And here is the recipe.

Recipe for Petty Cash’s Zucchini Quesadilla with Spicy Salsa Rioja.

Active Time: 20 minutes. Total

Time: 45 Minutes. Makes 2 10 inch Quesadillas.

1 pound

tomatoes, cored and quartered

1 small

onion, peeled and quartered

6 dried

árbol chiles, stemmed

1

chipotle chile in adobo

2

charred.

In a skillet, toast the árbol chiles over moderately low heat,

stirring, until lightly charred, 3 minutes; transfer to a blender. Add the

broiled tomatoes, onion and garlic along with the chipotle chile, vinegar and

sugar and puree until smooth. Season the salsa roja with salt.

In a cast-iron skillet, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil. Place one

tortilla in the skillet and place the zucchini on top evenly. Top the zucchini with

half the cheese. Brush half the the salsa

roja over the second tortilla.

Cook over moderately high heat until crisp on the bottom, 3 minutes.

4.

Flip the

quesadilla, adding the remaining 1 tablespoon of canola oil, and cook until the

cheese is melted, 2 minutes. Repeat this process to make the second Quesadilla

or cook them in two skillets at the same time.

Slice the quesadilla into wedges, transfer to a plate, garnish with the cilantro

and Fresno chiles and serve.