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Fagioli con le cotiche (Roman-Style Pork and Beans)
by
Frank Fariello
Calificación: 5.0
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%20borlotti%20beans%20simmered%20in%20tomato%20sauce%20with%20strips%20of%20pork%20rind.%20A%20classic%20example%20of%20how%20Roman%20frugality%20can%20produces%20hearty%20and%20delicious%20results.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EIngredients%20(for%204-6)%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EFor%20simmering%20the%20beans:%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EDirections%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ESoak%20the%20beans%20overnight.%20Simmer%20the%20beans%20in%20fresh%20water%20to%20cover,%20along%20with%20a%20garlic%20clove%20and%20parsley%20(if%20using%E2%80%94see%20Notes)%20until%20quite%20tender,%20about%201-1/2%20to%202%20hours.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EMeanwhile,%20prepare%20the%20pork%20rind:%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ERaw%20pork%20rind%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EPre-boil%20the%20rind%20for%20about%2015%20minutes.%20Remove%20the%20rind%20and%20let%20it%20cool%20for%20a%20few%20minutes.%20When%20it%20is%20cool%20enough%20to%20handle,%20cut%20it%20into%20thin%20strips.%20(Some%20recipes%20will%20tell%20you%20to%20trim%20of%20the%20fatty%20underside%20with%20a%20knife,%20but%20this%20is%20a%20bit%20too%20fussy%20for%20my%20taste%20and,%20anyway,%20I%20like%20the%20fattiness!)%20Then%20simmer%20the%20strips%20in%20water%20to%20cover,%20lightly%20salted,%20with%20the%20celery%20and%20onion.%20They%20will%20be%20done%20when%20they%20are%20tender%20but%20still%20have%20some%20bite%20to%20them,%20which%20will%20take,%20say%2045-60%20minutes.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EPrep'd%20and%20ready%20to%20go...%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EPrepare%20the%20tomato%20sauce%20in%20a%20large%20casserole%20large%20enough%20to%20contain%20all%20the%20ingredients.%20A%20terracotta%20or%20enameled%20cast%20iron%20pot%20would%20be%20ideal.%20Make%20a%20soffritto%20by%20saut%C3%A9ing%20the%20onion,%20garlic%20and%20parsley%20gently%20in%20lard%20(the%20traditional%20choice)%20or%20olive%20oil,%20seasoning%20while%20the%20odori%20are%20cooking.%20Add%20your%20canned%20tomatoes,%20pur%C3%A9eing%20them%20by%20passing%20them%20through%20a%20food%20mill%20into%20the%20pot.%20Let%20the%20tomatoes%20simmer%20until%20they%20have%20reduced%20into%20a%20sauce,%20about%2015-20%20minutes.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ENow%20it's%20time%20to%20put%20it%20all%20together:%20Add%20the%20pork%20rind%20to%20the%20tomato%20sauce%20and%20let%20them%20insaporire%20(see%20Glossary)%20for%20a%20minute%20or%20two,%20then%20add%20the%20cooked%20beans.%20Mix%20everything%20together%20well.%20Add%20a%20bit%20of%20the%20pork%20rind%20water%20and/or%20bean%20water%20if%20you%20find%20that%20the%20mixture%20is%20a%20bit%20dry.%20Simmer%20it%20all%20for%20about%2030%20minutes%20to%20allow%20the%20flavors%20to%20get%20to%20know%20each%20other.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EServe%20hot.%20Like%20many%20long-simmered%20bean%20dishes,%20fagioli%20con%20le%20cotiche%20are%20even%20better%20if%20allowed%20to%20rest%20overnight%20and%20reheated%20the%20next%20day.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ENOTES:%20Raw%20pork%20rind%20can%20be%20hard%20to%20find%20in%20the%20States.%20I%20am%20fortunate%20enough%20to%20have%20a%20farm%20supplier%20close%20by%20that%20has%20it,%20but%20where%20I%20live,%20in%20any%20event,%20you%20will%20rarely%20(if%20ever)%20find%20it%20in%20a%20supermarket.%20I%20suppose%20that%20butchers%20will%20also%20carry%20it%20or%20take%20an%20order.%20Unfortunately,%20there%20is%20no%20real%20substitute%20for%20it%20in%20this%20dish.%20After%20all%20the%20name%20of%20the%20dish%20is%20'beans%20and%20pork%20rind'%20in%20Italian!%20But%20if%20you%20were%20to%20substitute%20pork%20belly%20or%20some%20other%20fatty%20cut%20of%20pork,%20I%20would%20venture%20you'd%20wind%20up%20with%20something%20quite%20tasty.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EThe%20basic%20building%20blocks%20of%20this%20recipe%E2%80%94simmer%20the%20beans,%20simmer%20the%20pork%20rind,%20make%20the%20sauce%20and%20mix%20it%20all%20together%20and%20simmer%20for%20a%20bit%20more%E2%80%94is%20common%20to%20all%20the%20recipes%20you'll%20see%20for%20this%20dish.%20But%20like%20so%20many%20classics,%20there%20are%20variations%20on%20the%20basic%20theme,%20and%20they%20revolve%20mostly%20around%20three%20factors:%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EFirst,%20the%20ratio%20of%20bean%20to%20pork%20rind.%20In%20some%20recipes,%20the%20ratio%20is%202:1,%20or%20even%20greater,%20so%20that%20the%20pork%20is%20really%20only%20there%20as%20a%20flavoring%20agent.%20In%20these%20versions,%20the%20dish%20can%20serve%20as%20a%20a%20contorno.%20In%20other%20recipes,%20the%20ratio%20can%20increase%20to%20as%20much%20as%201:1,%20so%20that%20the%20pork%20is%20there%20as%20an%20equal%20partner,%20so%20to%20speak.%20In%20these%20heartier%20versions,%20the%20dish%20graduates%20to%20a%20full%20contorno%20or%20even%20a%20piatto%20unico%20or%20one-dish%20meal,%20accompanied%20by%20nice%20crusty%20bread%20and%20followed%20by%20a%20green%20salad%20and%20perhaps%20a%20piece%20of%20fruit.%20%20I%20just%20use%20as%20much%20of%20each%20as%20I%20have%20on%20hand,%20since%20it%20will%20be%20delicious%20no%20matter%20what!%20(By%20the%20way,%20if%20you%20have%20any%20left%20over,%20these%20beans%20go%20great%20with%20pasta.)%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ESecond,%20the%20dish%20can%20be%20more%20or%20less%20in%20rosso,%20by%20adding%20more%20or%20less%20tomato,%20depending%20on%20your%20preference.%20And%20you%20can%20use%20canned%20tomatoes%20passed%20through%20a%20food%20mill%20(my%20preference)%20or%20a%20passata%20di%20pomodoro.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EThird,%20the%20aromatic%20vegetables%20(aka%20odori)%20that%20make%20up%20the%20soffritto%20for%20the%20tomato%20sauce%20and%20are%20thrown%20in%20to%20simmer%20with%20the%20pork%20and%20beans%20vary%20from%20recipe%20to%20recipe.%20The%20above%20options%20are%20the%20ones%20I%20like,%20but%20for%20example,%20many%20recipes%20will%20tell%20you%20to%20make%20the%20tomato%20sauce%20with%20a%20classic%20soffritto%20italiano%20of%20onion,%20celery%20and%20carrots.%20Personally,%20I%20don't%20care%20for%20the%20sweetness%20that%20carrots%20lend%20to%20beans,%20and%20prefer%20to%20stick%20to%20the%20allium%20family.%20Some%20recipes%20will%20have%20you%20simmer%20your%20beans%20with%20no%20aromatics%20at%20all,%20since%20they%20will%20be%20absorbing%20the%20flavors%20of%20the%20tomato%20sauce%20and%20pork%20in%20the%20final%20stage%20anyway.%20And%20the%20pork%20rind,%20too,%20can%20simply%20be%20simmered%20in%20lightly%20salted%20water.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ESome%20recipes%20also%20call%20for%20adding%20a%20bit%20of%20prosciutto%20fat%20to%20the%20soffritto,%20but%20personally%20I'd%20call%20that%20gilding%20the%20lily,%20especially%20if,%20as%20I%20like%20to%20do,%20you%20are%20cooking%20with%20lard.%20Even%20I%20have%20limits%20to%20my%20pork%20fetishism.%3C/p%3E){kind=link}