Bean paste de John Spottiswood

This is a thick paste made from soybeans and grains that has been fermented and then aged for up to three years. It's a staple in Japan, where it's used to flavor soups, dipping sauces, meats, and dressings. There are hundreds of varieties of miso, and the Japanese match them to dishes with the same care that Americans match wines to meals. The darker kinds are saltier and more pungent, the lighter are sweeter and milder. Always add miso to soups and stews at the end, since boiling it destroys beneficial bacteria and causes it to curdle. Look for tubs of miso in the refrigerated section of Japanese food markets, health foods stores, or large supermarkets. It will keep in your refrigerator for many months. Powdered miso is also available, as are powdered soup mixes made with miso and dashi.