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06.18.11: dinner and a movie (quasi-bouillabaisse and Day for Night).
by
Elizabeth Schreiter
Calificación: 4.0
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.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EQuasi-Bouillabaisse%20with%20Copper%20River%20King%20Salmon,%20Pacific%20Cod%20and%20Littleneck%20Clams%20with%20Rouille-Sathered%20Croutons)%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EPeople%20used%20to%20stare%20at%20fires.%20Now%20they%20watch%20TV.%20We%20need%20to%20see%20moving%20images,%20especially%20after%20dinner.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3E%E2%80%93Francois%20Truffaut,%20Day%20for%20Night.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EDay%20for%20Night%20(click%20through%20for%20source)%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EDay%20for%20Night,%20simply%20put,%20is%20an%20amazing%20film.%20It%E2%80%99s%20joyous,%20hilarious,%20sad,%20and%20absurd.%20It%E2%80%99s%20a%20triumph%20of%20love%20and%20dedication%20and%20personal%20expression,%20and%20true%20to%20its%20tagline,%20%20it%20really%20is%20a%20film%20for%20people%20who%20love%20films.%20The%20narcissism%20of%20the%20actors,%20the%20bullshit%20propelling%20the%20crew%E2%80%93it%E2%80%99s%20so%20incredibly%20timeless%20that%20you%20can%20easily%20ignore%20the%20fact%20that%20it%20was%20filmed%20in%20the%2070s%20and%20therefore%20looks%20immediately%20dated.%20But%20it%20was%20also%20one%20of%20those%20films%20that%20I%20hadn%E2%80%99t%20thought%20about%20in%20a%20while%20until%20I%20shoved%20a%20random%20CD%20into%20my%20car%E2%80%99s%20player%20(yes,%20I%20have%20a%20zillion%20mix%20CDs%20in%20my%20%E2%80%9904%20Jetta,%20shut%20up)%20and%20its%20wondrous%20theme%20by%20Georges%20Delarue%20filled%20my%20car%20as%20I%20was%20making%20my%20way%20to%20the%20Westport%20train%20station,%20and%20suddenly%20I%20was%20craving%20to%20see%20it%20again,%20preferably%20after%20eating%20a%20big%20bowl%20of%20bouillabaisse.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EThis%20thought%20struck%20me%20in%20early%20May.%20I%20wasn%E2%80%99t%20able%20to%20actually%20give%20in%20to%20the%20craving%20until%20Saturday,%20and%20it%20ended%20up%20being%20an%20apt%20pairing%20of%20food%20and%20film,%20what%20with%20the%20reminder%20of%20the%20importance%20of%20rolling%20with%20the%20punches.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EOur%20reasons%20to%20wait%20were%20simple:%20we%20were%20moving,%20so%20taking%20on%20big%20culinary%20projects%20was%20soon%20to%20go%20on%20hold%20for%20a%20spell,%20and%20we%20were%20really%20busy%20for%20much%20of%20May%20up%20until%20this%20past%20weekend.%20Making%20a%20big%20pot%20of%20fish%20soup%20was%20not%20even%20the%20initial%20plan%20to%20use%20up%20the%20rest%20of%20our%20Copper%20River%20salmon,%20as%20I%20had%20this%20lovely%20Gordon%20Ramsay%20recipe%20ready%20to%20go%20on%20Friday%20night%E2%80%93plans%20that%20quickly%20died%20when%20my%20train%20ride%20lasted%20three%20times%20as%20long%20as%20it%20should%20and%20it%20was%20pouring%20out%20and%20neither%20Michael%20nor%20I%20felt%20much%20like%20cooking%20anything%20by%20the%20time%20we%20both%20got%20home.%20The%20recipe%20wasn%E2%80%99t%20ideal%20anyway%20as%20our%20salmon%20was%20kind%20of%20hacked%20up%20after%20Wednesday%E2%80%99s%20paillards,%20so%20when%20I%20suggested%20using%20them%20as%20the%20firm%20fish%20in%20the%20bouillabaisse%20instead,%20Michael%20was%20immediately%20on%20board.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EPrepping%20the%20fish%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ETraditionally%20bouillabaisse%20is%20made%20with%20white%20fish%20(one%20firm,%20one%20flaky),%20lobster,%20and%20mussels,%20but%20we%20had%20to%20make%20do%20with%20what%20we%20had%20on%20hand%20and%20in%20Fairway.%20They%20had%20no%20fish%20heads%20or%20bones%20to%20spare%20(note%20to%20self:%20when%20making%20this%20again,%20call%20ahead%20and%20ask%20for%20some%20the%20day%20before)%20so%20we%20had%20to%20go%20with%20boxed%20seafood%20stock,%20and%20their%20mussels%20only%20come%20in%202%20lb%20bags%20and%20I%20wasn%E2%80%99t%20in%20the%20mood%20to%20power%20through%20the%20remainder%20the%20next%20day,%20so%20instead%20we%20went%20with%20a%20handful%20of%20littlenecks.%20Tradition%20sometimes%20has%20to%20make%20way%20for%20practicality,%20after%20all.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EOur%20side%20salad%20of%20local%20tomatoes,%20baby%20cucumbers,%20olive%20oil,%20sea%20salt%20and%20ricotta%20salata%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EExceptions%20and%20substitutions%20aside,%20we%20followed%20Alton%20Brown%E2%80%99s%20recipe%20(as%20his%20recent%20Good%20Eats%20episode%20on%20the%20subject%20was%20the%20reason%20I%20was%20craving%20the%20dish%20in%20the%20first%20place)%20and%20the%20results,%20if%20not%20wholly%20authentic,%20were%20amazing%20anyway.%20The%20wild%20salmon%20wasn%E2%80%99t%20nearly%20as%20overpowering%20as%20I%20feared%20it%20might%20be%E2%80%93nor%20did%20it%20get%20overly%20tough%E2%80%93and%20the%20clams%20added%20some%20brininess%20that%20made%20up%20for%20not%20using%20homemade%20stock.%20As%20we%20dove%20into%20our%20bowls,%20the%20breeze%20wafting%20in%20through%20our%20sliding%20glass%20door,%20we%20could%20almost%20imagine%20that%20instead%20of%20looking%20out%20at%20the%20gym%20across%20the%20street%20we%20were%20gazing%20out%20onto%20the%20Mediterranean.%20A%20bit%20clich%C3%A9,%20I%20know,%20but%20it%20is%20a%20significantly%20better%20image%20than%20watching%20people%20sweat%20it%20out%20on%20the%20treadmill,%20n%E2%80%99cest%20pas?%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EAnd%20so%20concludes%20our%20first%20round%20of%20Copper%20River%20salmon%20experiments,%20but%20based%20on%20a%20project%20Michael%20finally%20dove%20into%20over%20the%20weekend,%20I%20have%20a%20feeling%20things%20are%20going%20to%20get%20even%20more%20fun.%20Stay%20tuned%E2%80%93and%20in%20the%20meantime,%20treat%20yourself%20to%20a%20bowl%20of%20this.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EQuasi-Bouillabaisse%20with%20King%20Salmon%20and%20Pacific%20Cod%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3Eadapted%20(with%20apologies)%20from%20Alton%20Brown%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EPlace%20half%20of%20the%20olive%20oil%20into%20a%20large%20pot%20(we%20used%20our%20Dutch%20oven),%20bring%20to%20medium%20heat,%20and%20when%20oil%20shimmers%20add%20the%20onion%20and%20fennel%20season%20with%20salt%20and%20saute%20for%2010%20minutes%20or%20so.%20Deglaze%20the%20pot%20with%20the%20wine%20or%20vermouth,%20then%20add%20the%20stock,%20basil,%20tomatoes,%20saffron,%20and%20orange%20peel,%20cover%20the%20pot,%20increase%20the%20heat%20to%20high%20so%20it%20will%20come%20to%20a%20boil,%20and%20then%20reduce%20to%20simmer%20for%2015%20minutes.%20Then%20you%E2%80%99ll%20add%20the%20fish%20(NOT%20the%20shellfish),%20the%20remaining%20olive%20oil,%20cayenne%20pepper,%20the%20garlic,%20and%20some%20more%20sea%20salt%20and%20boil%20rapidly%20for%20five%20to%20seven%20minutes.%20Carefully%20remove%20the%20pot%20from%20the%20heat,%20add%20the%20lobster%20and%20clams,%20and%20cover%20and%20let%20steam%20for%20about%204-5%20minutes%20(if%20your%20clams%20are%20really%20fresh,%20put%20them%20in%20a%20few%20minutes%20before%20you%20put%20in%20the%20lobster%20so%20they%20have%20time%20to%20open%20and%20the%20lobster%20doesn%E2%80%99t%20get%20over%20cooked).%20Place%20in%20warm%20serving%20bowls%20and%20serve%20with%20Rouille%20over%20broiled%20baguette%20slices.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EFor%20the%20Rouille:%20roast%20one%20red%20pepper%20in%20the%20broiler%20or%20on%20an%20open%20flame%20until%20the%20skin%20is%20blackened%20and%20then%20cover%20in%20a%20bowl%20to%20let%20the%20steam%20ease%20the%20skin%20off.%20Stem%20and%20seed.%20Place%20that%20into%20a%20food%20processor%20or%20the%20bowl%20of%20an%20immersion%20blender%20along%20with%20three%20cloves%20of%20garlic,%20a%20stemmed%20and%20seeded%20fresh%20red%20chile%20(I%20was%20daring%20and%20used%20a%20habanero%E2%80%93use%20at%20your%20own%20risk)%20and%20a%20teaspoon%20of%20lemon%20juice%20and%20blend%20until%20smooth.%20Add%20a%20little%20salt%20and%20then%20drizzle%20olive%20oil%20into%20the%20bowl%20to%20thicken%20the%20pepper%20mixture%20until%20it%20is%20a%20smooth%20sauce.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3E(Once%20again,%20the%20salmon%20was%20sent%20to%20us%20by%20the%20great%20folks%20at%20Copper%20River%E2%80%93thanks%20again!)%3C/p%3E){kind=link}