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Beef Daube....to "glacée or not to glacée"
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Rocky Menge
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Fried Polenta With Simmered Beef Sauce
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%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EOften%20served%20in%20New%20Orleans%20as%20an%20hors%20d%E2%80%99oeuvres,%20Daube%20Glac%C3%A9e%20%20is%20simply%20leftover%20daube%20that%20was%20cooked%20with%20spices%20and%20a%20stock%20which%20included%20veal%20bones%20and%20pigs%20feet.%20These%20are%20high%20in%20natural%20glycerin%20which%20when%20mixed%20with%20the%20daube%20and%20poured%20into%20a%20terrine,%20formed%20a%20solid%20jelly-like%20mass.%20This%20was%20either%20sliced%20and%20served%20as%20a%20cold%20meal%20or%20in%20smaller%20pieces%20as%20hors%20d%E2%80%99oeuvres.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EI%20remember%20as%20a%20child%20my%20Aunt%20Louise%20would%20give%20a%20loaf%20of%20Daube%20Glac%C3%A9e%20to%20friends%20and%20family%20at%20Christmas.%20I%20can%20still%20picture%20my%20father%20sitting%20at%20the%20kitchen%20table,%20quite%20content,%20with%20a%20thick%20slide%20of%20Daube,%20a%20spoonful%20of%20mayonnaise%20and%20a%20pile%20of%20saltines.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EA%20number%20of%20the%20older%20recipes%20for%20this%20dish%20include%20the%20pigs%20feet%20and%20so%20on%20but%20as%20a%20practical%20matter,%20unflavored%20gelatin%20does%20the%20trick.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EThe%20recipe%20I%20use%20comes%20from%20Chef%20John%20Besh%20of%20Restaurant%20August%20in%20New%20Orleans.%20His%20cookbook:%20My%20New%20Orleans,%20the%20cookbook%20should%20be%20a%20%22must%20have%22%20for%20any%20chef%20who%20loves%20New%20Orleans.%20More%20information%20can%20be%20found%20at%20www.chefjohnbesh.com%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EI'm%20not%20going%20to%20type%20the%20recipe%20here%20as%20it%20has%20a%20lot%20of%20ingredients%20but%20you%20can%20find%20it%20on%20Google%20and%20here%20is%20the%20link:%20http://books.google.com/books?id=L-PBWXgTTjsC&pg=PA344&lpg=PA344&dq=john+besh+beef+daube+glace&source=bl&ots=qNXE5mIFcc&sig=9c9zW_ALq6n3vxpudRbSTxkEqzM&hl=en&sa=X&ei=SDocUKOFDcfb0QHmpIHwAw&ved=0CGIQ6AEwAA%23v=onepage&q=john%2520besh%2520beef%2520daube%2520glace&f=false%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EI%20followed%20the%20directions%20pretty%20closely.%20The%20dried%20mushrooms%20I%20used%20were%20chanterelle%20mushrooms.%20I%20keep%20a%20number%20of%20different%20dried%20mushrooms%20and%20I%20felt%20the%20chanterelle%20mushroom%20imparted%20a%20pleasant%20flavor%20without%20overpowering%20the%20dish.%20Incidentally,%20I%20buy%20all%20my%20dried%20mushrooms%20from%20Olive%20Nation.%20They%20have%20wonderful%20products%20besides%20the%20mushrooms.%20Here%20is%20a%20link:%20http://www.olivenation.com/Mushrooms-C52.aspx%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EThe%20big%20hurdle%20with%20this%20recipe%20is%20the%20veal%20stock.%20Where%20I%20live,%20it%20is%20impossible%20to%20find%20in%20a%20grocery%20store.%20So%20I%20either%20have%20to%20order%20it,%20make%20it%20or%20fake%20it.%20My%20preference%20is%20to%20make%20it%20but%20try%20finding%20veal%20bones.%20A%20reasonable%20alternative%20is%20to%20use%20store%20bought%20demi-glace.%20The%20demi-glace%20is%20made%20with%20veal%20and%20when%20added%20to%20a%20combination%20of%20water%20and%20beef%20broth,%20it%20comes%20close.%20Candidly,%20I%20would%20simply%20suggest%20using%20beef%20broth.%20Some%20will%20argue%20with%20me%20but%20I%20think,%20especially%20for%20this%20recipe,%20it%20adds%20boldness%20to%20the%20dish.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ESomething%20else%20I%20take%20care%20with%20is%20the%20wine%20I%20use.%20I've%20written%20here%20before%20that%20the%20first%20rule%20about%20cooking%20with%20wine%20is%20if%20you%20wouldn't%20drink%20the%20wine,%20don't%20cook%20with%20it.%20This%20rule%20applies%20for%20any%20bottle%20you%20might%20already%20have%20open.%20Don't%20think%20%22well%20I%20don't%20want%20to%20waste%20it%20so%20I'll%20stick%20it%20in%20the%20stew%22.%20If%20the%20wine%20has%20turned,%20and%20you%20don't%20enjoy%20drinking%20it,%20don't%20cook%20with%20it.%20However,%20all%20is%20NOT%20lost.%20Don't%20throw%20out%20this%20wine,%20save%20it%20in%20a%20ceramic%20vat%20for%20fabulous%20red%20wine%20vinegar.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EI%20think%20this%20recipe%20calls%20for%20a%20big%20wine%20and%20that%20makes%20me%20gravitate%20to%20the%20Southern%20Rhone%20wines.%20I%20used%20a%20Cotes%20du%20Rhone%20(Guigal%20Cotes%20du%20Rhone%202007).%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ESomething%20else%20that%20I%20did%20different%20was%20the%20cooking%20time.%20I%20started%20this%20around%205:30%20one%20evening%20and%20around%208:00%20that%20night,%20I%20let%20it%20cool%20and%20put%20it%20in%20the%20refrigerator.%20I%20took%20it%20out%20at%20lunch%20time%20the%20next%20day%20and%20let%20it%20simmer%20on%20very%20low%20heat%20until%20around%206:00%20that%20night,%20stirring%20it%20periodically%20and%20adjusting%20seasoning.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ESince%20I%20hadn't%20forgotten%20about%20those%20cold%20winter%20nights,%20I%20didn't%20make%20Daube%20Glac%C3%A9e%20out%20of%20all%20of%20it.%20I%20put%20a%20fair%20amount%20in%20the%20freezer%20for%20the%20winter.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EThat%20reminds%20me......here%20is%20another%20idea%20for%20this%20recipe:%20Beef%20and%20Barley%20soup.%20Somebody%20remind%20me%20later%20and%20I'll%20tell%20you%20how%20I%20use%20this%20as%20a%20basis%20for%20a%20great%20winter%20soup.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EI%20took%20the%20rest%20of%20the%20daube%20and%20added%20the%20gelatin,%20let%20it%20cool%20and%20put%20it%20in%20the%20refrigerator.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ESo.....here%20it%20is!!!%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EA%20nice%20cold%20way%20to%20eat%20beef%20stew%20on%20a%20hot%20summer%20night.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EHow%20did%20I%20serve%20it?%20We%20had%20a%20slice%20of%20daube%20accompanied%20by%20cooked%20and%20chilled%20haricot%20verts%20along%20with%20a%20large%20dollop%20of%20homemade%20mayonnaise.%20Not%20bad.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EAnd....guess%20what???%20Don't%20like%20it%20cold?%20Hell....heat%20it%20up%20and%20it%20is%20Daube%20de%20Boeuf%20again!!%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EWhat%20did%20I%20pour%20with%20it??%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EThis%20is%20clearly%20a%20red%20wine%20meal.%20So%20I%20picked%20one%20of%20the%20great%20wines%20from%20the%20Languedoc%20region%20of%20France:%20Mas%20de%20Gassac%20vintage%202000.%20The%20wine%20is%20a%20blend%20of%20Rhone%20and%20Bordeaux%20grapes%20and%20is%20outstanding.%3C/p%3E){kind=link}