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Risotto alla milanese
by
Frank Fariello
Calificación: 5.0
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%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EInstructions%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EMake%20a%20soffritto%20by%20saut%C3%A9ing%20the%20onion%20and%20marrow%20in%20the%20butter.%20When%20the%20marrow%20has%20melted%20and%20the%20onion%20is%20well%20wilted,%20add%20the%20rice%20and%20let%20it%20'toast'%20in%20the%20soffritto%20without%20browning.%20Add%20a%20splash%20of%20white%20wine%20and%20let%20it%20evaporate.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EProceed%20with%20the%20risotto%20in%20the%20usual%20way%E2%80%94with%20one%20little%20catch:%20While%20the%20rice%20is%20simmering,%20take%20your%20saffron%20and%20simmer%20it%20very%20gently%20with%20a%20ladleful%20of%20broth%20so%20it%20releases%20its%20flavor%20and%20color%20into%20the%20broth.%20Then,%20either%20about%20halfway%20through%20the%20cooking%20process,%20or%20if%20you%20prefer%20a%20more%20assertive%20flavor,%20about%205%20minutes%20before%20the%20rice%20is%20done,%20add%20the%20saffron%20and%20its%20broth%20into%20the%20risotto.%20Continue%20to%20cook%20as%20usual.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ERisotto%20alla%20milanese%20is%20usually%20served%20all'onda,%20which%20is%20to%20say,%20rather%20more%20loose%20than%20firm,%20so%20begin%20the%20final%20enrichment,%20called%20the%20mantecatura%20in%20Italian,%20while%20the%20rice%20is%20stlll%20fairly%20brothy.%20Add%20the%20cheese%20and,%20if%20you%20like,%20a%20dab%20of%20butter%20for%20extra%20richness%20(never%20cream!)%20to%20the%20rice,%20then%20stir%20to%20toss%20the%20rice%20around%20vigorously%20for%20about%20two%20minutes.%20(Skilled%20risotto%20chefs%20are%20a%20marvel%20to%20watch%20as%20they%20work%20the%20rice,%20they%20toss%20the%20rice%20into%20the%20air%20while%20they%20stir%E2%80%94not%20something%20I've%20tried%20at%20home.,%20though.)%20If%20you%20like%20your%20risotto%20a%20bit%20firmer,%20let%20it%20sit,%20covered,%20for%20a%20minute%20or%20two%20before%20serving.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ENOTES:%20All%20bones%20have%20marrow,%20of%20course,%20but%20there%20are%20particular%20good%20marrow%20bones%20(also%20often%20called%20soup%20bones)%20that%20you%20can%20buy%20sawed%20in%20half%20to%20expose%20the%20marrow,%20like%20these:%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ETo%20prepare%20bone%20marrow%20for%20use%20in%20risotto,%20I%20like%20to%20simmer%20the%20marrow%20bones%20for%20just%20a%20minute%20or%20two%20to%20loosen%20the%20marrow%20a%20bit.%20Then,%20using%20a%20small%20spoon%20or%20knife,%20scrape%20out%20the%20marrow%20from%20the%20bone.%20Depending%20on%20how%20long%20you've%20simmered%20the%20bone,%20the%20marrow%20may%20also%20just%20slip%20out%20on%20its%20own.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ENow%20for%20those%20of%20you%20who%20may%20be%20a%20bit%20squeamish%20about%20bone%20marrow,%20it%20can%20be%20left%20out%20of%20the%20dish,%20adding%20perhaps%20some%20additional%20butter%20during%20the%20mantecatura%20to%20make%20up%20for%20it.%20What%20you%20will%20have%20made%20is%20more%20properly%20called%20risotto%20allo%20zafferano%20rather%20than%20a%20true%20risotto%20alla%20milanese%E2%80%94but%20it%20will%20still%20be%20delicious!%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ESaffron,%20as%20we%20all%20know,%20it%20very%20expensive,%20but%20a%20little%20goes%20a%20long%20way.%20It%20is%20sold%20in%20threads%20(the%20stigma%20of%20the%20crocus%20flower)%20and%20also%20ground%20into%20powder.%20Avoid%20the%20powder%20if%20you%20can.%20It%20melts%20more%20easily%20but%20it%20tends%20to%20have%20a%20rather%20faded%20flavor.%20A%20powder%20also%20allows%20for%20extraneous%20'filler'%20or%20substitute%20ingredients.%20With%20the%20threads,%20you%20can%20be%20sure%20you%20are%20getting%20the%20real%20thing.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EAs%20for%20the%20rice,%20we've%20covered%20the%20three%20main%20varieties%20before:%20arborio,%20the%20most%20common%20and%20usually%20least%20expensive%20of%20the%20three,%20will%20work%20fine,%20but%20for%20this%20dish%20I%20would%20prefer%20Carnaroli,%20although%20many%20recipes%20call%20for%20vialone%20nano,%20which%20is%20an%20excellent%20risotto%20rice%20from%20the%20Veneto.%20For%20details,%20check%20out%20my%20post%20on%20the%20Italian%20Pantry.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EThere%20are%20some%20subtle%20variations%20to%20this%20dish%20you%20can%20try%20as%20you%20like:%20The%20broth%20is%20usually%20a%20rich%20beef%20broth,%20but%20you%20can%20equally%20try%20a%20mixed%20meat%20broth,%20a%20chicken%20broth%20or%20a%20vegetable%20broth.%20Some%20cooks%20use%20shallots%20rather%20than%20onion,%20a%20variation%20that%20I%20find%20particularly%20nice.%20And%20some%20avoid%20making%20a%20soffritto,%20putting%20the%20shallot%20or%20onion%20into%20the%20simmering%20rice%20and%20removing%20it%20before%20serving,%20which%20they%20claim%20make%20the%20risotto%20lighter.%20The%20famed%20Milanese%20chef%20Gualtiero%20Marchesi%20calls%20for%20making%20the%20onion%20soffritto%20separately,%20adding%20white%20wine%20to%20it,%20and%20allowing%20the%20onion%20to%20simmer%20until%20creamy.%20The%20onion%20cream%20is%20added%20at%20the%20very%20end%20of%20cooking%20to%20add%20'acidity%20and%20aroma'.%20An%20intriguing%20idea,%20but%20one%20that%20I%20have%20not%20yet%20tried.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ERisotto%20alla%20milanese%20is%20an%20ancient%20dish,%20with%20its%20origins%20going%20back%20to%20the%20Middle%20Ages,%20although%20the%20modern%20recipe%20apparently%20only%20goes%20back%20to%20the%20early%2019th%20century.%20(See%20this%20article%20for%20a%20brief%20history.)%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ERisotto%20alla%20milanese%20is%20perhaps%20most%20commonly%20served%20together%20with%20ossobuco,%20as%20a%20piatto%20unico%E2%80%94one%20of%20the%20very%20few%20examples%20of%20rice%20being%20a%20'side%20dish'%20in%20traditional%20Italian%20cookery.%20But%20it%20is%20equally%20good%20as%20a%20primo,%20followed,%20say,%20by%20a%20cotoletta%20alla%20milanese%20or%20perhaps%20a%20brasato.%3C/p%3E){kind=link}