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Vermouth and stripes/vermut i rattles: cured Alaskan salmon and goat cheese bites as inspired by Quimet i Quimet.
by
Elizabeth Schreiter
Calificación: 4.0
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%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EOne%20of%20the%20tapas%20that%20they%20are%20best%20known%20for%20is%20a%20montandito%20(essentially%20a%20small,%20open-face%20sandwich)%20of%20cream%20cheese,%20smoked%20salmon,%20and%20then%20topped%20with%20a%20honey-soy%20sauce,%20and%20it%20sounded%20so%20good%20that%20almost%20as%20soon%20as%20I%20read%20about%20it,%20I%20decided%20I%20had%20to%20try%20the%20combination%20for%20myself.%20The%20first%20time%20I%20used%20rye%20crackers%20much%20like%20I%20did%20for%20one%20of%20our%20New%20Year%E2%80%99s%20Eve%20dishes%20from%20December,%20which%20was%20tasty,%20but%20not%20long%20after%20I%20had%20the%20thought%20to%20make%20little%20roll-ups%20much%20like%20I%20made%20the%20prior%20New%20Year%E2%80%99s%20Eve%20in%20Stamford.%20Unlike%20those,%20though,%20I%20decided%20to%20keep%20the%20stuffing%20plain%20and%20instead%20focus%20the%20flavor%20on%20the%20fish%20and%20the%20sauce,%20and%20instead%20of%20cream%20cheese%20I%20chose%20a%20more%20flavorful%20goat%20cheese%20that%20would%20be%20a%20little%20more%20interesting%20but%20wouldn%E2%80%99t%20overwhelm%20the%20other%20ingredients.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EInstead%20of%20picking%20up%20some%20smoked%20salmon,%20Michael%20noticed%20some%20gorgeous%20Alaskan%20sockeye%20fillets%20in%20the%20fish%20counter%20that%20were%20reasonably%20priced,%20so%20we%20got%20a%20pound%20of%20it%20and%20decided%20to%20make%20some%20gravlax%20with%20it.%20Unlike%20the%20farmed%20Atlantic%20stuff,%20though,%20the%20piece%20we%20got%20was%20very%20thin;%20fortunately,%20I%20have%20a%20really%20good%20cure%20for%20Arctic%20char%20that%20is%20much%20faster%20and%20meant%20for%20a%20much%20more%20delicate%20fish%20via%20Gramercy%20Tavern%E2%80%99s%20cookbook.%20The%20cure%20went%20on%20in%20the%20morning%20and%20then%20we%20went%20about%20our%20day%20until%20the%20cocktail%20hour%20chimed.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EA%20write-up%20of%20Quimet%20i%20Quimet%20from%20Vermut.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ETruthfully,%20I%20have%20yet%20to%20fully%20master%20the%20art%20of%20slicing%20cured%20salmon%20into%20clean%20strips%20consistently,%20but%20I%20can%20tell%20you%20that%20a%20sharp%20knife%20is%20absolutely%20essential%20and%20you%E2%80%99ll%20need%20a%20little%20practice%20to%20get%20them%20the%20right%20amount%20of%20thickness.%20But%20honestly,%20it%E2%80%99s%20so%20worth%20the%20trouble:%20these%20wraps%20are%20even%20more%20flavorful%20than%20the%20ricotta-stuffed%20ones%20of%20yore,%20and%20the%20honey-soy%20sauce%20glaze%20just%20adds%20even%20greater%20dimension%20and%20complements%20the%20vermouth%20beautifully.%20It%20doesn%E2%80%99t%20even%20matter%20if%20the%20salmon%20strips%20aren%E2%80%99t%20perfectly%20even,%20because%20they%20hug%20the%20goat%20cheese%20so%20nicely%20and%20stay%20affixed%20to%20the%20toothpicks%20or%20skewers%20so%20effectively%20that%20even%20the%20imperfect%20ones%20look%20good,%20or%20at%20least%20that%E2%80%99s%20what%20I%E2%80%99m%20telling%20myself.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ESeriously,%20though,%20these%20take%20some%20work%20but%20the%20results%20are%20SO%20worth%20the%20effort,%20and%20frankly,%20I%20want%20to%20make%20them%20my%20signature%20summertime%20amuse%20bouche%20because%20they%20look%20so%20nice%20and%20taste%20so%20good.%20You%20could%20absolutely%20just%20cure%20the%20salmon%20and%20put%20them%20on%20some%20crostini%20to%20make%20a%20simple%20montandito,%20but%20I%20like%20these%20because%20these%20take%20a%20little%20more%20effort%20but%20are%20far%20easier%20to%20eat.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ECured%20salmon%20wraps%20with%20goat%20cheese,%20soy,%20and%20honey%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EInspired%20by%20Quimet%20i%20Quimet%20with%20help%20from%20the%20Gramercy%20Tavern.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3E3/4%20pound%20cured%20Alaskan%20sockeye%20salmon%20(recipe%20below),%20sliced%20into%20thin%20strips%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3E1%204-oz%20package%20of%20soft%20goat%20cheese%20(I%20prefer%20Charvie%20in%20the%20pyramid%20for%20this)%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EHoney%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EUsukuchi%20soy%20sauce%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EOn%20each%20slice%20of%20salmon,%20carefully%20spoon%20about%20a%20teaspoon%20or%20so%20of%20cream%20cheese,%20then%20roll%20up%20and%20secure%20with%20a%20toothpick.%20Assemble%20as%20many%20as%20you%20like%20and%20then%20make%20the%20sauce.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EThe%20sauce%20is%20definitely%20a%20taste-as-you-go%20kind%20of%20deal%E2%80%93start%20with%20about%20two%20tablespoons%20of%20soy%20sauce%20and%20a%20couple%20squidges%20of%20honey%20and%20whisk%20together,%20adding%20a%20little%20more%20of%20each%20and%20tasting%20as%20you%20go%20along.%20You%E2%80%99ll%20want%20to%20end%20up%20with%20about%20three%20tablespoons%20in%20total,%20or%20enough%20to%20drizzle%20over%20all%20of%20the%20rolls.%20Do%20so%20and%20serve%20immediately,%20preferably%20with%20vermuts.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ECured%20Alaskan%20Sockeye%20Salmon%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3Eadapted%20from%20The%20Gramercy%20Tavern%20Cookbook%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ETo%20make%20the%20cure,%20combine%20the%20salt,%20sugar,%20spices,%20and%20citrus%20zests%20in%20a%20bowl.%20You%20are%20then%20ins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