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Coltrane is Dumplings, or, Why I Don't Use Recipes
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Hugh Amano
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,%20I've%20found%20them%20much%20more%20useful%20as%20a%20muse%20of%20sorts;%20an%20inspiration;%20a%20starting%20point.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EThere's%20a%20chef%20named%20Marco%20Pierre%20White,%20a%20wonderful%20(if%20psychotic)%20British%20chef,%20the%20first%20Briton%20and%20youngest%20chef%20to%20be%20awarded%20three%20Michelin%20stars%20(who%20unfortunately%20is%20now%20taking%20the%20Gordon%20Ramsay%20route%20of%20becoming%20a%20television%20personality,%20but%20that's%20neither%20here%20nor%20there).%20I%20saw%20him%20giving%20a%20recipe%20and%20demonstration%20of%20making%20a%20roasted%20pork%20belly%20once,%20with%20a%20great%20glaze%20and%20some%20roasted%20veg.%20I'm%20drooling%20just%20thinking%20of%20it%20now:%20the%20fat%20layer%20was%20so%20good%20and%20crisped%20up,%20and%20the%20sound%20of%20him%20cutting%20it...mamma%20mia!%20It%20was%20the%20crispiest%20crumbliest%20most%20mind%20blowingly%20delicious%20looking/sounding%20thing%20ever.%20And%20the%20glaze...mmm...the%20glaze.%20So,%20from%20that,%20in%20my%20head,%20it's%20simple:%20%22I%20wanna%20make%20a%20crispy%20pork%20belly%20roast,%20and%20a%20sweet%20glaze,%20and%20some%20roast%20veg%20to%20go%20with%20it.%22%20And%20I%20think%20that's%20the%20best%20place%20for%20any%20cook%20to%20start.%20Whether%20they%20ate%20something,%20saw%20something,%20read%20a%20recipe%20somewhere,%20I%20think%20that%20ultimately,%20it's%20best%20to%20have%20a%20concept%20and%20visualization%20of%20what%20it%20is%20that%20you%20want%20the%20end%20product%20to%20be.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ESo,%20I%20visualize%20how%20many%20people%20I'm%20feeding,%20and%20how%20much%20I%20selfishly%20want%20left%20over%20for%20sandwiches,%20and%20I%20go%20to%20Paulina%20and%20get%20a%20good%20piece%20of%20belly.%20Then,%20I%20go%20to%20the%20market,%20hopefully%20the%20farmer's%20market,%20but%20if%20it's%20winter%20and%20the%20market%20isn't%20really%20happening,%20it'll%20be%20Stanley's,%20or%20somewhere%20like%20that.%20It's%20kind%20of%20a%20good%20time%20for%20citrus%20right%20now,%20so%20I'll%20pick%20up%20some%20oranges%20or%20those%20good%20honey%20tangelos%20that%20are%20around.%20I'll%20consider%20the%20spices%20I%20have%20in%20my%20cabinet,%20maybe%20get%20some%20good%20cider%20from%20my%20friend%20at%20Seedling%20Farm,%20you%20know,%20things%20that%20taste%20good%20with%20pork.%20Thyme/apples/oranges/cinnamon/star%20anise,%20things%20you've%20tasted%20with%20pork%20before%20and%20that%20will%20work%20as%20a%20glaze.%20Honey%20to%20thicken%20it%20and%20make%20it%20more%20unctuous.%20Veg%20that%20looks%20good.%20Then,%20simple%20as%20that,%20go%20home%20and%20make%20it%20happen.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ERub%20the%20belly%20with%20some%20olive%20oil,%20and%20season%20it%20generously%20with%20salt%20and%20pepper.%20Put%20it%20in%20a%20hot%20stove%20and%20let%20it%20roast%20until%20soft%20and%20tender%20inside%20and%20nice%20and%20crisp%20on%20the%20outside.%20Throw%20the%20veg%20in%20the%20oven%20when%20the%20pork%20is%20akmost%20done.%20Turn%20up%20the%20heat%20a%20bit%20if%20it%20needs%20more%20crisping.%20Realize%20the%20cider%20is%20too%20thin%20to%20be%20a%20glaze,%20so%20reduce%20it,%20and%20throw%20in%20aromatic%20orange%20zest%20and%20juice,%20spices,%20and%20honey%20'till%20it's%20nice%20and%20gooey.%20Remove%20all%20from%20heat.%20Slice,%20serve%20attractively%20on%20a%20plate.%20You%20know?%20It%20is%20just%20that%20easy.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EOf%20course,%20there%20are%20benefits%20that%20experience%20brings,%20and%20I'll%20concede%20that%20sometimes%20to%20gain%20this%20experience,%20recipes%20are%20necessary%20as%20a%20guide.%20Especially%20with%20scientific%20things%20like%20baking%20and%20brines%20and%20cure%20and%20that%20sort%20of%20thing.%20But%20the%20more%20you%20cook,%20the%20more%20experienced%20you%20become,%20and%20the%20more%20you%20believe%20in%20yourself%20as%20a%20cook.%20And%20the%20easier%20it%20is%20to%20know%20when%20a%20roast%20is%20done,%20flavor%20combinations%20that%20work,%20what%20product%20looks%20good,%20and%20how%20much%20you%20need%20to%20get.%20And%20this%20is%20the%20reason%20I'm%20aiming%20my%20writing%20away%20from%20recipes.%20You%20see,%20when%20recipes%20are%20followed,%20they%20tend%20to%20make%20cooks%20a%20bit%20short-sighted.%20%22The%20store%20only%20has%20light%20brown%20sugar%20and%20no%20dark%20brown%20sugar!%22%20%22My%20recipe%20calls%20for%20kale%20and%20all%20they%20have%20is%20the%20blue%20ribbon%20cabbage!%22%20%22This%20recipe%20calls%20for%20organic%20milk%20from%20the%20morning%20milking%20of%20Ayrshire%20Cows%20by%20Amish%20Farmers%20on%20the%20third%20morning%20after%20the%20blue%20moon%20and%20all%20the%20Jewel%20has%20is%20commodity%20Dean's%20brand%20milk!%22%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3EI%20believe%20that%20cooking%20and%20the%20ability%20to%20cook%20is%20inside%20each%20and%20every%20person--it%20has%20to%20be,%20as%20preparing%20and%20eating%20food%20is%20one%20of%20the%20few%20basic%20instincts%20necessary%20for%20survival%20for%20everyone%20on%20the%20planet.%20We%20just%20need%20to%20find%20a%20way%20to%20unlock%20and%20remember%20that%20knowledge%20and%20understand%20what%20our%20senses%20are%20telling%20us,%20and%20learning%20from%20recipes%20is%20a%20great%20way%20to%20do%20that.%20But%20as%20we%20fill%20our%20mental%20larder%20with%20food%20knowledge,%20those%20messages%20get%20bigger%20and%20more%20improvised%20based%20on%20the%20skills%20and%20knowledge%20we've%20obtained%20and%20honed.%20It's%20like%20a%20musician%20reading%20sheet%20music,%20or%20an%20actor%20holding%20their%20script%20on%20stage.%20And%20if%20we%20listen%20to%20our%20food%20carefully,%20and%20cook%20from%20the%20soul,%20we%20are%20quite%20capable%20of%20cooking%20like%20an%20improvising%20musician%20or%20well%20rehearsed%20actor.%20We%20can%20feel%20food%20as%20opposed%20to%20thinking%20it.%20And%20just%20as%20music%20is%20so%20diverse%20and%20so%20interesting,%20so%20is%20food.%20Everyone%20interprets%20their%20relationship%20with%20food%20in%20a%20different%20way.%20Every%20culture%20has%20some%20sort%20of%20dumpling;%20but%20ravioli%20is%20worlds%20apart%20from%20bao.%20John%20Coltrane's%20Equinox%20as%20performed%20by%20Jose%20James%20is%20unique%20from%20a%20random%20Columbian%20band.%20My%20mom's%20mac%20and%20cheese%20is%20different%20than%20your%20mom's%20mac%20and%20cheese.%3C/p%3E%3Cp%3ESo%20that,%20in%20a%20very%20large,%20opinion-riddled%20nutshell,%20is%20why%20I%20don't%20include%20recipes%20on%20Food%20on%20the%20Dole.%20But%20I%20would%20love%20to%20make%20it%20clear,%20that%20if%20you%20ever,%20ever%20have%20any%20questions%20about%20the%20food%20I%20write%20about,%20or%20how%20to%20prepare%20it%20(or%20anything%20else%20for%20that%20matter),%20please%20let%20me%20know%20and%20I'll%20be%20happy%20to%20discuss%20it%20with%20you.%20But%20please%20realize%20that%20this%20is%20about%20as%20far%20as%20my%20knowledge%20of%20Trane%20goes.%3C/p%3E){kind=link}